Twin Turbo 1971 Scamp Project
I understand your Dad's position. Frankly the LA small blocks are SO GOOD, (IMHO), that it's really hard to beat them. They have LS like valve angles and respond really well to turbocharging, bolt in to a chassis, etc.
Having working extensively with the LS engines, at Livernois Motorsports, Thomson Automotive, and with Greg Banish, would have made the LS an natural choice for me. I have the calibration tools and it's all really easy in parts, headers, mounts, etc.
My initial thought was I'm going to build this with an AlterKation K member, 1.2 FT Brake Rotors, and just keep going until its stupid. Then my practical nature set in. I want to eventually promote my company's (Fram/Prestone/Autolite), brands at events like Street Machine Nats, Powertour with a bright orange custom Mopar that any car crafter could build and have it be a reasonable, fairly practical piece that allows for an upgrade path down the road. I'm going to try and build a car with air conditioning, power steering, and brakes as that's the hardest version to work around. BTW, Please like "Autolite Spark Plugs" on Facebook if you have time and help support the project there so I get love from my team!
So far here's what I know:
1) You obviously will need a JDM take out engine and trans.
2) An Australian, UK or UAE oil pan with a true MID SUMP OIL PAN from a mid 90's Toyota Crown, 2JZGE. ~$600 used. You can have Stef's make you a custom pan for $900 so don't worry too much if you can't get a crown pan.
Here's a Crown Pan:
Now, you could notch the heck out of the K Member for the JDM Aristo front sump oil pans but I'd say forget that because the notch will mod the K Member SO MUCH that you might as well call Hemi Denny and start fresh.
3) Remote Oil Filter Mount to clear power steering gear box.
4) Of course custom mounts. The Toyota biscuit mounts are beautiful and beefy but sadly wont clear the chassis.
This is not a small engine, not a light engine, not a simple engine. As long as you keep your arms around that fact then I suggest going forward. If I have TRUE interest from others I will copy a set of mounts and sell a set to defray some of my build costs.
So what are the benefits of this engine for the uninitiated:
I understand your Dad's position. Frankly the LA small blocks are SO GOOD, (IMHO), that it's really hard to beat them. They have LS like valve angles and respond really well to turbocharging, bolt in to a chassis, etc.
Having working extensively with the LS engines, at Livernois Motorsports, Thomson Automotive, and with Greg Banish, would have made the LS an natural choice for me. I have the calibration tools and it's all really easy in parts, headers, mounts, etc.
My initial thought was I'm going to build this with an AlterKation K member, 1.2 FT Brake Rotors, and just keep going until its stupid. Then my practical nature set in. I want to eventually promote my company's (Fram/Prestone/Autolite), brands at events like Street Machine Nats, Powertour with a bright orange custom Mopar that any car crafter could build and have it be a reasonable, fairly practical piece that allows for an upgrade path down the road. I'm going to try and build a car with air conditioning, power steering, and brakes as that's the hardest version to work around. BTW, Please like "Autolite Spark Plugs" on Facebook if you have time and help support the project there so I get love from my team!
So far here's what I know:
1) You obviously will need a JDM take out engine and trans.
2) An Australian, UK or UAE oil pan with a true MID SUMP OIL PAN from a mid 90's Toyota Crown, 2JZGE. ~$600 used. You can have Stef's make you a custom pan for $900 so don't worry too much if you can't get a crown pan.
Here's a Crown Pan:
Now, you could notch the heck out of the K Member for the JDM Aristo front sump oil pans but I'd say forget that because the notch will mod the K Member SO MUCH that you might as well call Hemi Denny and start fresh.
3) Remote Oil Filter Mount to clear power steering gear box.
4) Of course custom mounts. The Toyota biscuit mounts are beautiful and beefy but sadly wont clear the chassis.
This is not a small engine, not a light engine, not a simple engine. As long as you keep your arms around that fact then I suggest going forward. If I have TRUE interest from others I will copy a set of mounts and sell a set to defray some of my build costs.
So what are the benefits of this engine for the uninitiated:
- Massive Power Potential on a Stock Shortblock. You can drive around a nice sanely BPU modded Supra engine that will smoothly and quietly put down 400-500 HP forever and get you close to 25 MPG. OR you can mod the hell of of the thing with huge turbo, stand alone EFI, and work towards 700-800 RWHP.
- It's Techhie. You will have Sequential EFI, Variable Valve Timing, Electronic Throttle, well built overdrive trans, Twin Sequential Turbochargers, 7,000 RPM potential, 40 year old Mopar when you are done.
- You will be unique for sure. You will make some of the VFW and lawn show snobs really mad. Especially if you are planning to keep the car looking like a period correct hot rod like I am.
- You will not be slow. Without trying too hard you have built a 12 second car that will be happy to go way faster merely buy turning up the boost.