No start, fresh rebuild, help anyone?

just saying for getting an engine ready to run before actually cranking it you can get it real close by setting the distributor in and getting the points almost ready to open and checking the phase of the rotor is a good idea then set the firing order from there and your good to go. in 31 years of playing with almost all mopars I have seen this happen several times where they were out of phase and I check when using parts new to me to avoid the problems created by this, I could care less if anyone thinks i am incorrect the main thing is to look for yourselves and save countless hours scratching your head when one does not run correct ie: really hard to start laboring the starter when you set the timing for performance or lazy timing when you have it set to start easily...thats the point...when you get one that acts that way is when you need to check or even better whenever you put one together...along with filling lifters with oil and oiling the rings and cylinder walls when assembling an engine are good practices to learn
"Mostly correct" actually you don't want the points (or reluctor trigger) to happen at TDC, but rather where it is that you want the initial timing, IE 10-15* BTC,




Look I'm not making fun, here. You are simply incorrect

You can NOT change the relationship of the points and rotor (if you have points) because the points opening point (the points cam in the distributor) and the rotor are MECHANICALLY connected to the same piece of the distributor. It has nothing to do with anything below that, not the distributor shaft, and not the intermediate shaft. Even if the intermediate shaft was twisted, this only drives the oil pump which doesn't care about timing.

The electronic distributors can be out of phase if you install the reluctor incorrectly (that's what the arrow is for, to set up CCW or CW operation, and that DOES change rotor phasing.) Or if the pickup coil has been reversed or otherwise manufactured wrong. That is, when the trigger is generated, the pulse is "upside down" thus changing the time of the pulse. This is a concern for those of us using GM HEI conversions. I have A GM module on my Toyota powered Cletrac, and got it wrong on the first fireup. It did not take me long to figure this out. On my Dart, I had researched online diagrams of "those who came before" and already knew how to hook up the Mopar pickup to properly obtain phase to the GM module.



Any other rotor phase problems are due to a mechanical deformity such as an improperly made cap/ rotor (Chineseo) or wear and slop in the vacuum advance plate/ mechanism. You cannot simply change rotor phase. There is nothing to move, or adjust that will easily change it. The rotor is keyed to the shaft, THAT cannot be changed, and the cap is keyed to the dist. body, so that cannot be easily changed.

I think you'd better understand that I'm an old guy. I ran these cars when ALL YOU COULD GET was a breaker point distributor. I was only about 22 years old when I learned the "finger in no1" trick