stock 318 more torque?
So armed with a crowbar, we finally manage to pry some details out of ya LOL
Sounds to me like you are about at the limits of a stock compression/ stock heads 318
You need to detail what you have for timing.
Start with a piston stop, which you can buy or make. Confirm that the timing marks are actually correct.
Then measure around your balancer, carefully, to get the circumference. Then either buy timing tape for that size, or use math to determine "how many degrees per inch" and mark off 40* on the balancer. Then you can use dividers to divide that in half for 20, half again for 10* marks, then add 10 at a time onto your 40 out to 60*.
Then divide those in half and you have marks every 5*. Make the 5* marks half as long, make the 10* marks all the way across. You can use a small square and a scribe, then a small file if need be. Mark the 10, 15, and 35 with paint so you can really see 'em
Then start with initial timing at some known point like 10* at the slowest idle, no vacuum, that you can muster.
Then rev the engine way up to see where it moves to. If you have two people and a tach, you can plot the curve versus RPM
You can gain or lose a LOT of low end throttle response and torque, and loss of high end with a poor curve, or a dist. with rusty advance mechanism.
So armed with a crowbar, we finally manage to pry some details out of ya LOL
Sounds to me like you are about at the limits of a stock compression/ stock heads 318
You need to detail what you have for timing.
Start with a piston stop, which you can buy or make. Confirm that the timing marks are actually correct.
Then measure around your balancer, carefully, to get the circumference. Then either buy timing tape for that size, or use math to determine "how many degrees per inch" and mark off 40* on the balancer. Then you can use dividers to divide that in half for 20, half again for 10* marks, then add 10 at a time onto your 40 out to 60*.
Then divide those in half and you have marks every 5*. Make the 5* marks half as long, make the 10* marks all the way across. You can use a small square and a scribe, then a small file if need be. Mark the 10, 15, and 35 with paint so you can really see 'em
Then start with initial timing at some known point like 10* at the slowest idle, no vacuum, that you can muster.
Then rev the engine way up to see where it moves to. If you have two people and a tach, you can plot the curve versus RPM
You can gain or lose a LOT of low end throttle response and torque, and loss of high end with a poor curve, or a dist. with rusty advance mechanism.