OK, the new cluster should have nothing to do with the no start
How did you check spark?
VERY important to understand..........
If you check spark when jumpering the start relay, you don't have the same conditions as when using the key, because
"In run" the ignition buss goes through the ballast resistor, and THIS LINE GOES COLD during crank
"in crank" USING THE KEY the coil is directly supplied 12V from a separate contact in the ignition switch.
What does the spark look like? Good and strong? where/ how did you check it?
Have you checked the plugs? wet/ dry?