225 turbo headers
And, some VERY helpful text about the whole add-on turbo operation as regards a slant six ...
PISHTA sez:
"Here are a few pics and a scan of the dimensions. The turbo mounting holes are "drill to suit" for the turbo used. The Toyota CT-26 flange is not a T3 ot a T4 flange but a proprietary pattern so my holes are for this CT-26. The 19 degree of the 2 bolt exhaust flange determines the kick out distance from the block and is correct for a pre 67 narrow A so as to clear the manual steering box. Power steering may require a smaller degree as the nose of the box might be longer the a manual box. The 9 degree angle is to get the flange and tube straight up. The turbo flange is mounted perpendicular with the tube, this allows the turbo to sit level and this should be cut on the long leg of the J to allow height adjustment. You want the turbo to be lower that the water level in the radiator to keep the cartridge "wet" after shutdown to prevent coking of the oil. Oil return line goes down at a 45 to the pan via a 3/4 inch tube above the oil line, no less diameter and no more than a 45 angle or you'll risk oil back up and blow by in the turbo. The oil pressure line is run from a T behind the sender down off the oil pump. I routed it up and along the base of the valve cover, round the front and into the cartridge One site claimed that a .010 jet/restriction in the oil line will prevent oil saturation and blow by as it needs little oil volume. The water lines (optional) were plumbed from the temp sender for the supply and the return was routed to the upper radiator hose (can tap into thermostat cover), these are just handy taps. I suppose you could tie into heater lines also. Exhaust is a flex hose off the flange down to the stock location of the head pipe, enlarged to 2.5 inches to a 2.5 exhaust system. The muffler does not need to be huge as the turbo itself muffles the exhaust note to almost nothing, even a straight pipe to a "S" resonator would not be loud. The boost referenced fuel pump pressure line is T'd of the line that goes to the integral wastgate, and is plumbed into the weep hole on the backside of the pump diaphragm. Some holes are round and easy to epoxy a stub into, others like mine were square so I had to do a little shaping. The boost acts as a spring off the back of the diaphragm and supplies a 1:1 increase in fuel pressure per lb of boost, up to about 9psi. The carb is a Holley 2300 350 CFM 2bbl, common 4150 style fuel bowl, float and air cleaner flange size. remove all linkage through air cleaner flange and epoxy closed to make airtight. I drilled out the Power valve restrictions (small holes behind the PV) to .070 to richen the power circuit under boost, dont want to go lean! Distributor was not touched, well see how that works but the boost is suppose to work/help with the advance of the distributor. Carb hat is needed and I put the adjustable blow off valve on the back of the carb hat so the evacuation of the pressure would not be forced back into the plumbing toward the turbo, a logical design that I rarely see used. you can get inexpensive Bosch "pop off" valves from SAAB, or even Porsche in different ratings but the Ebay adjustables are cheap. Just make sure they dont leak around the adjuster screw. All seem to a little as they are designed for EFI that can compensate for small leaks. I put an O-ring in there and will most likely RTV seal after I get it dialed in. You can run a "bleeder" tube T'd off the wastegate feed line into the cab to a ball valve to adjust the boost level more than the stock 9 psi wastegate. Open the bleeder and it will require more boost to open the "leaking" wastegate."
