Anti Freeze turned brown.

inkjunkie said
Seriously doubt you have a blown head gasket. It will more than likely take a lot more than a little bit of water form a garden hose to get rid of the rust. Should have kept the old stuff on it and flushed it with some chemicals before replacing everything. Someone on here was talking about using CLR as a flush, never tried it but it might work. What you might want to do is hunt down one of the filters that goes into the upper hose and flush it with an acid based cleaner. My Fairlane has one of those filters, will let you know what it is....Did not have to go look....Coolant Filter that goes into the upper hose. Motor in the Fairlane is very rusty so I put one of these in it as a band aid fix so I could drive it for a while.

I seen prestone makes a flush chemical. I don't know how good it is. I was also told it can make the crusty stuff move elsewhere and plug something up, like jackets? I dunno. I just bookmarked that filter. Thank you!!

Charrlie_S said
First off, I wouldn't use 50/50. Definatley do not use Dexcool, extended life, or mixes with everything anti freeze. Remove the block drain plug on the passenger side of the engine, just to the rear of the oil pump area. Poke a screwdriver or something into the hole, to get the water flowing out. Flush the system with at least water to get the block somewhat clean.
What I do every fall, since My race car(s) get only plain water all race season, is with the thermostat out, I add 3 ozs of swimming poll (muriatic)acid mixed with about a pint of water to the cooling system (that is almost filled with plain water). Let that solution circulate for about 1/2 hour, and drain completely (radiator and block). Flush, flush, flush, with plain water. Then add full straingth "green" antifreeze.

I know where the oil pump is, I never noticed a drain plug on the block. I will take a look for it now. After 41 years, will it come out actually without anything breaking off? That sounds like a good plan, to get the block drained properly. I will remove the thermostat during all of this.

67Dart273 said
I don't know why not, and the OP is in an area where he needs freeze protection.

If you are in a position to drain and store the car for at least a couple weeks, drain the entire coolant, and let it settle, then carefully transfer the "clean" upper liquid to a different container, and let what's left settle again, until you cannot gain

I have not priced them, the old diesel truck "luberfiner" cartridges used to be really cheap for their size, you might rig a McGuiver up to filter what's left.

I think this is one, 11 bucks

http://www.fleetfilter.com/filter/wix-oil-filters/51554.html

You could probably just plug the bottom and put a funnel in the top, then "rig" it above a bucket, and slowly poor through the top hole

I don't know the condition of your water "up there," but in some areas it is almost vital to use "store bought" purified water. When I was in the Navy, my 4 years in San Diego, smart people did NOT put tap water in their systems

I have it in my garage. I can let it sit a few weeks if need be. I just want it to be right! It was clean for a little while. Then of course, got dirty again.