Cam selection help

moper said
"that would explain it right there, another thing people need to know is starting out as 1.88 heads there is way more work than one would think to get them just to 230cfm just cutting to 2.02."

x2 - as the rest of the posts say...
Normally when I replace the valves I bring the seats up and out - so I go with 2.02 if they are 1.88s, or 2.05s if they were 2.02s. I will also:
- Do a 5 angle valve job - this provides the main bowl hogging and also unshrouds the chamber
- Rework the bowl with minor attention to the guide boss - I don't eliminate it - just reshape a little.
- Round and lay back the SSR slightly.
- Gasket match the opening and blend in past the pinch, enlarging the pinch area. I do not touch the floor
- I do not polish - in some spots it's left at the carbide burr finish others I'll hit with coarse sand roll.

In regards to starting with 1.88 heads
Yep, you can get 240 easier either staying with the 1.88 or 1.94 than 2.02 'though that's about it' UNLESS you do like you mentioned with the five angle serdi cutter as to open the throat up a bunch, let alone the turn needs a lil less laying back cause it doesnt start out as steap and over hanging as it get after a stone age vj. I will say this though...if u really know shape, you can still make quicker work of it than a novice.
I leave it all rough, see my lil trick is to use a dulled beat up cutter to finish with and leave an almost as cast finish ;)...another is a coarse 2" flat stone roller, that really roughs it for slowing it down..
Now if u have factory 2.02 heads....u are ahead , the factory actually does a good job opening them up, they already do 225-230 cfm...and as a side note, that's when u have to ask why u would pay1400 dollars to run ootb aluminum heads that only go 240's. Only worth it if u port them! LOL