Frame Connectors

I installed a set of Mopar bolt in sub frame connectors for the following reasons:
I don’t weld well enough to do a proper job although I have a cheap welder it’s not up to welding thick stock, and cut-off/ angle grinder.

Where I was living at the time, there were no handy steel supplies, new or scrap, to use in fabrication of these devices.

Hiring a welder to fabricate and install would have cost way more than the bolt in connectors.

I had a ½ inch drill, jack & stands, and time to cut torque boxes and Mopar bolt in connectors to fit, which now can be welded in place any time my skills allow me to. Remember the inner rocker panel is the structural member connecting the front and rear sub frame members as is the roof, the connectors are a supplement to the original design.

This summer I replaced the fuel line with a pre bent part, unbolting the sub frame connector to fish the line in place, and reinstalling it took only a few moments. When I get around to replacing patched floor pans, connectors not attached to floor sheet metal will make the job a lot easier.

I have to believe some mechanical engineer buried deep in some cubical filled Chrysler building made a few calculations to figure out what size and design of a sub frame connector was needed for most cars. Now if you are going to strap a huge Hemi in your car, and perform wheel stands at the drags all weekend all summer than maybe something a bit more stout is called for.

I would be more concerned of the integrity of the front cross member when installing connectors, than the size of the tubing used. If the cross member is paper thin from corroding inside out, the connector is not going to help much. It is important when welding, or bolting a thick gage member to a thin gage member a large gusset be used at that connection to spread or lessen the forces applied to the thin member so it does not deform from over loading form various forces including torque induced moments.