Barracuda woes :(

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VonCramp

VonCramp

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My 1969 Barracuda will not run. It has spark and fuel. However it does not start. The distributor is the El Cheapo off of EBay that is HEI style. I had the distributor installed for two days and the motor ran beautifully. On the third day it just wouldn't start. I have a trunk mounted battery. The cable is grounded to the frame. Motor is grounded to frame. I pulled number one plug and it is getting a pinkish spark, not a sharp blue spark. Holley 600 is definitely getting fuel. The timing always ends up in same place with rotor pointing towards number 5 piston. It doesn't point at number one. The rotor does rotate when cranking. As far as I can tell compression is fine. The oil pressure climbs to 60 pounds when cranking. I am at a total loss here. The car was running great as stated before. On the third day with new cheap red cap hei style distributor it wouldn't start. Please help.
 
Well, the rotor always ends up pointing at 5....uh it should be pointing at 1. Thumb #1 (driver front) and bump in short hits, wait for compression to build then manually rotate to TDC (should be close, if more than 1/4, then you may have spun a damper ring). Rotor should be facing 1 and ONLY 1, not 5, not even 6 (180 out). Check coil for weak spark, probably not ignition mod if you get a spark. Let us know.
 
pishta said:
Well, the rotor always ends up pointing at 5....uh it should be pointing at 1. Thumb #1 (driver front) and bump in short hits, wait for compression to build then manually rotate to TDC (should be close, if more than 1/4, then you may have spun a damper ring). Rotor should be facing 1 and ONLY 1, not 5, not even 6 (180 out). Check coil for weak spark, probably not ignition mod if you get a spark. Let us know.
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When I originally timed the vehicle, the distributor dropped in with the rotor pointing at number 5. It ran great as I stated. I am sorry I do not know what a damper ring is. Is it part of the Harmonic Ballancer? I will definitely check coil. I noticed the timing marks appear to be part of the block which are inconvienantly located next to the lower radiator hose which makes getting the marks lined up a lot of fun. Is it possible for the motor to jump time but still consistently line up on number 5? I am currently using a promaster Mallory coil. I was using a Mallory Unilite distributor that oddly quit working after about two days same as the new HEI distributor, or what I assume is a distributor problem. This is my first Mopar build. So, all of this stuff is new to me. Thanks!
 
VonCramp said:
Is it possible for the motor to jump time but still consistently line up on number 5? !
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Not an run.

The balancer is an outer/ inner ring put together with rubber, so the TIMING MARK can slip. This has nothing to do with the engine running, that is, if you get the engine running, and the timing mark slips, the engine will still run until the next time you try to check timing and then it will be way off.

So for your problem

1---The cam may be out of time, IE a worn timing chain/ sprocket.

2--You could be misinterpreting what it is that is happening

3--Part of this is that the timing mark has slipped, "maybe," but that does not explain how you were able to time it in the first place.

YOU DO KNOW how Mopar cylinders are numbered? We are not working on a Ford here, IE no 1 on a Mopar is no5 on a Ferd

1--Get yourself a piston stop and check the timing marks for accurate

2--Run a compression check, or try to find out the specs on your cam, and try to determine if the cam is in time. By marking some degree marks on the balancer, and watching the valves, this is possible.

3--Recheck the distributor setup AFTER making sure the timing mark is OK. Pull no1 plug, stick your finger in, and feel for the START of compression. Then watch the timing marks, and bring the marks up NOT to TDC, but where it is that you want initial timing, IE about 12-15* BTC.

Then confirm that WHEREVER the rotor points, that is where the no1 plug wire lines up.

Also grab the rotor and give it a good firm twist, maybe the cheap *** distributor ?? you have?? has come apart "up top." I've seen this happen on GM V8 distributors, twice in my life.
 
67Dart273 said:
Not an run.

The balancer is an outer/ inner ring put together with rubber, so the TIMING MARK can slip. This has nothing to do with the engine running, that is, if you get the engine running, and the timing mark slips, the engine will still run until the next time you try to check timing and then it will be way off.

So for your problem

1---The cam may be out of time, IE a worn timing chain/ sprocket.

2--You could be misinterpreting what it is that is happening

3--Part of this is that the timing mark has slipped, "maybe," but that does not explain how you were able to time it in the first place.

YOU DO KNOW how Mopar cylinders are numbered? We are not working on a Ford here, IE no 1 on a Mopar is no5 on a Ferd

1--Get yourself a piston stop and check the timing marks for accurate

2--Run a compression check, or try to find out the specs on your cam, and try to determine if the cam is in time. By marking some degree marks on the balancer, and watching the valves, this is possible.

3--Recheck the distributor setup AFTER making sure the timing mark is OK. Pull no1 plug, stick your finger in, and feel for the START of compression. Then watch the timing marks, and bring the marks up NOT to TDC, but where it is that you want initial timing, IE about 12-15* BTC.

Then confirm that WHEREVER the rotor points, that is where the no1 plug wire lines up.

Also grab the rotor and give it a good firm twist, maybe the cheap *** distributor ?? you have?? has come apart "up top." I've seen this happen on GM V8 distributors, twice in my life.
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Yes I know where number 1 is. The rotor however only points at number 5 because of the slot in the drive gear only allows for this. Are you suggesting that I rotate the crank to get the timing closer which would actually move the slot and allow the distributor to drop in with the rotor facing correctly towards number one? Thanks for your help!!!
 
When you have the timing light on & cranking it, does it flash at the same spot each time? eg at **deg on the harmonic.
 
VonCramp said:
Yes I know where number 1 is. The rotor however only points at number 5 because of the slot in the drive gear only allows for this. Are you suggesting that I rotate the crank to get the timing closer which would actually move the slot and allow the distributor to drop in with the rotor facing correctly towards number one? Thanks for your help!!!
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NO. The distributor gear, as one member puts it, can point to China. The only reason the distributor gear has a specified installation posistion is so that

the assembly line folks can wrench, repeat

so the plug wires "lay nice"

and so tune up guys "see what they expect" to see.

Sounds like all you need to do is the following:

Pull no1 as I suggested, bump the engine until you get compression, and then carefully move the crank to where it is that you want initial time, IE 15* or so BTC

Then pull the cap and see where the rotor points. Wherever this is, plug the no1 wire in there.

If this has "magically changed" then either the cam drive has slipped, or something has slipped in the distributor.

Since the car has seeminly mysteriously got out of time, I would assume NOTHING, and if this were me, I would do exactly as I posted-----

1---check the timing mark with a positive stop

2--check the cam time as best you can

Then set up the engine on no1 compression, 15 or so BTC and see if the distributor rotor still points to the no1 wire. If not, something has changed somewhere

IS THERE ANY possibility that some "friend" has pulled a trick on you?
 
VonCramp said:
Yes I know where number 1 is. The rotor however only points at number 5 because of the slot in the drive gear only allows for this. Are you suggesting that I rotate the crank to get the timing closer which would actually move the slot and allow the distributor to drop in with the rotor facing correctly towards number one? Thanks for your help!!!
Click to expand...

Mupoo said:
When you have the timing light on & cranking it, does it flash at the same spot each time? eg at **deg on the harmonic.
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I will try the timing light check. Praying it doesn't jump around. Starting to think I could have a bad connection at the firewall. I had cinched some wires tight with a couple of zip ties and electrical tape. After I had done this with the wires, the car didn't run the next day. Thanks for taking the time to reply.
 
It sounds like your distributor gear may not have been installed with the No. 1 tower pointing to the front. No matter, it'll still run if the corresponding spark plug wires are positioned according to where No. 1 is pointing when at TDC.
 
Voltage Regulator or Ballast Resistor? If it was running before and now not and you did not change anything, that is the first place I would check.
 
Mad Dart said:
Voltage Regulator or Ballast Resistor? If it was running before and now not and you did not change anything, that is the first place I would check.
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Oddly enough I never installed a voltage regulator. I was waiting for my one wire alternator to show up. I didn't have to hook up a ballast resistor with the new distributor. It is the hei style off of eBay. I just ran the hot wire from the ballast resistor connector to coil. I left the other plug unconnected. I ran the car for a very short time with the non-one wire 65 amp alternator. The only wire I had connected was the heavy gauge wire going to the post on the alternator. I don't know if this damaged anything or not. I didn't really think that one through.
 
I had the same issue with a cheap arse Pro-Comp dist. Had to re-phase the wires to the "new" number one position. Then it ran. Just for kicks I put the wires in their proper position and re-phased distributor gear so it would put the rotor at factory #1. It also ran then. I ultimately went back to Mother Mopar parts.
 
I think you should listen to what you are saying. You said the last thing you did was to zip tie those wires together.Take them apart, unwrap them and look for breaks in the wire insulation. It could be that coil is not compatible with your system. I had several Mallory coils go bad on me.(no I didn't keep buying them,they came on the cars). You said the spark was very weak. Try another coil, also do what 67Dart273 says whether it's this or another problem,cause then you know everything is functioning correctly.
 
VonCramp said:
Oddly enough I never installed a voltage regulator. I was waiting for my one wire alternator to show up. I didn't have to hook up a ballast resistor with the new distributor. It is the hei style off of eBay. I just ran the hot wire from the ballast resistor connector to coil. I left the other plug unconnected. I ran the car for a very short time with the non-one wire 65 amp alternator. The only wire I had connected was the heavy gauge wire going to the post on the alternator. I don't know if this damaged anything or not. I didn't really think that one through.
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The reason I suggested it is you said the spark looked Pinkish which would lead one to believe it has to do with some sort of Voltage issue. I am glad I asked the question I did though because I got you to think about it more and give up more info. I am sure someone here will help figure it out.
 
Car should fire and run fine if the VR is laying on the work bench.

However, it MAY be a voltage issue in the ignition harness, most likely the bulkhead connector.

Try jumpering a lead (Mopar ECU?) from the coil + to the battery when trying to start it.
 
I am awaiting the arrival of a Mopar Performance distributor and module with harness. I didn't want to add more wires to the engine compartment but, oh well. Really wish the HEI style would've kept working. Such a clean and simple installation. Someone replied that it didn't matter if the voltage regulator was hooked up or not as far as running the motor. So, I guess that means I didn't fry the module that way? Just don't understand what is going on with this crazy car. I will post how the new distributor install goes. If this distributor fries, I am going to shoot this damn car.
 
One of my mates with his Chevelle had a dizzy like this and in the middle of nowhere the internal coil died - lost spark going down the freeway and the engine stopped & I nearly ran into him. When I get sick of mucking around I'll put in a full MSD system in - little $$$ but you get what you pay for ultimately
 
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