1966 Disc Brake Conversion Questions

It's not hard to source the parts for the later Mopar swap. An hour or less in the yard gets you everything you need off an F/J/M body except for the UCA's and lower ball joints. If you buy new rotors, calipers, and hoses even faster, since you don't need to pull those parts.

Heck, you can go on RockAuto and source the master cylinder, rotors, calipers, and hoses. Using their current prices for '73-'76 A body disk brake parts...

M/C- $11.23
Rotors- $36.79 each
Calipers- $39.28 (includes a $20 core) each
hoses- $5.88 each
pads (semi-metallic)- 7.12
lower ball joint- 17.20 (each)

So that's $223.77+ shipping. Last set of spindles and caliper brackets I got from the yard were $60. Throw in the brake block, we'll even call that $20. So now you're at $303.77. Buy a set of ball joint sleeves from Dr. Diff and re-use your UCA's, $50.

So, $353.77 + shipping from RockAuto. Everything but the spindles and the brake block were ordered new, and you've got Mopar LBP brakes, just like the factory. No chevy parts, no extra machining, everything can be had from the local Napa in a pinch. I don't understand why you'd want to buy a kit to put chevy parts on your Mopar when you can get the Mopar parts for the same price, and that's using all NEW parts except for the spindles and brake block. Find decent parts in the yard and you can start subtracting costs.

AND, if you get really lucky and find a B/R/M body out there, you can have 11.75" rotors, same price for everything. Or, spend an extra $100 and order the 11 3/4 caliper brackets from Dr. Diff new.