Those flared tubes obviously are for rubber hose and clamps, a definite no-no with injection. Rubber is OK in itself for fuel as long as the hose is rated for it but you need to have some sort of locking connection, clip, crimp, AN etc. Just so we're clear, an EFI system operates under fairly high pressure, like 60 psi normally. You don't want to skimp on your connections here.
Now that we have the PSA out of the way, you're going to need to figure out some way to connect to the hard lines. -6 is essentially 3/8 so if you have 3/8 lines as opposed to the factory 5/16, (which it sounds like) then you're good, you just need to get some -6 tube sleeves and nuts and figure out a way to make a 37 degree flare on the end of the line. Remeber to put the fittings on before you flare!
I've done this deal (not EFI but extensive use of AN fittings) with my own Duster. The factory fuel line routing is tight along the frame rail in the engine bay but if you can make a nice clean cut and get the flaring tool in there to make your flare you'll be good. Just run the push lock hose up to the throttle body so it's out of the way of your exhaust and accessories.
I ended up having to get the whole fuel line out. You can't really get a flared line with the tube nut and sleeve on it through the factory hole in the cross member where the OE fuel line passes through. I was planning to re-do mine anyway but you may not have been looking to do that. That's why I say that if you can make a clean cut and flare it while it's still in the car you will save a lot of work.
The caveat to that is that it's essential to make a very clean and straight cut for 37 degree flares since they are a single flare and must conform to the cone on the male AN fitting. It's also kind of a pain to get the flaring tool in there without hitting anything. There are different ones than the Ridgid (which I have) so perhaps another one might work better.
Also, do you have a fuel injection type fuel pump? How are you planning on running that?