Starter won't engage when key is turned.
But I wonder: is this the problem? If my NSS prong on the relay is already grounded to the motor, shouldn't it start up?
The relay ...... is still fairly new. Could the problem be with the ignition switch at the key? How would I go about testing this?
I swapped out the old positive terminal cable for a new one. ............ it should at least crank if I bypass the relay. Instead I got a click on the starter. I tested the voltage at 3 spots: 12.25v at the positive terminal on the batt, 12.25v @ the positive IN on the relay, and 12.25v at the starter solenoid. I know, I know, I should learn to fix a problem before I create a new one. Any thoughts?]
I tried to explain this earlier so once again
You have TWO "push on terminals on the starter relay which are the coil. You can switch the wires to them, they simply go to the magnetic coil in the relay.
1---One push on comes from the IGN switch, through the bulkhead and to that terminal. It should be HOT when key is held to start
2--Remaining "push on" goes to NSS or in your case ground to the block.
So with the key in "start" the relay should pull in.
3--The BIG STUD is one side of the relay contacts as well as a battery junction point. This is the large wire coming from the battery, and going TO the large starter MOTOR terminal.
4--The "square" screw terminal is the "switched" side fo the relay contacts and feeds power to the starter solenoid This is the no10/12 wire going to the starter SOLENOID
A--Start by jumpering across the two starter terminals with a screwdriver. The engine should crank.
If not, battery cable or dirty terminals, hooked up incorrectly, or bad starter Clip your meter directly onto the large starter stud, and the other to the engine block. Jumper across and read the meter. It should read more than 10.5v, the more the better. If you get more than 10V and the starter won't crank, bad starter.
B--IF the starter works, in test "A" above, move up to the relay.
Jumper across the battery stud and the "square" screw terminal. Starter should again crank. If not poor connection/ bad wire from the relay to the starter solenoid, that is the smaller no 12/ 10 wire. IT IS COMMON for this wire to break inside the ring terminal at the starter because of engine vibration
If starter operates in "B" above:
C--Clip your meter to the engine block, and back probe the "start" wire on one of the "push on" terminals Prop up the meter or use an assistant, and twist the key to "start" You should get "same as" battery voltage
If not----Check at the ignition switch, and if you get voltage there "in start" then the switch or the connector is bad or you are not getting power TO the switch
Check the bulkhead connector -- you may have a bad connection there
IF the above checks OK, that is you DO get battery voltage in "start" but the relay will not operate, you only have two options left----
either your "fake" NSS ground wire is not actually grounded, or the relay is bad.
SO leaving everything hooked up as before, back probe the terminal which is grounded to the engine, other probe on the engine block. Twist the key to "start" and if you read voltage, the ground wire "is not really grounded."
If you get NO voltage reading, REPLACE the relay.
