360 build help
Got a 360 bored 30 over and most of the lower engine components. Just need help with ins and outs of assembling a mopar engine. Only built a ford straight six before this.
For the short block assembly there is not much to it:
Get some plastigauge, a ring compresser, a ring expander (or just carefully walk thej rings around the piston, I never broke a ring doing it), assembly lube (STP works on the bearings). Look up the torque values for the main and rod bolts. You may want to check piston to wall clearance, a feeler gauge works good enough. Check piston to deck clearances if the block has been zero decked. If you have standard rebuilder pistons and have not decked the block you won't have to worry about interference problems, they are usually .010-.020" shorter than factory pistons.
Use a new piston to push the compression rings into the cylinder bore so they are perfectly squared in the hole and check the ring gaps with a feeler gauge. The ring manufacturer usually gives the recommended gaps.
1-1/2 to 3 thousands max on the bearing clearances as a rule of thumb for a rebuild job. Really best to get a general assembly manual or a mopar bible. There are a ton of things a good engine book will tell you to do so you don't make any rookie mistakes.
I put my 360 together without a shop manual or anything but have had done a half dozen chevy engines before that. 15yrs later it still runs fine.
Follow the gasket manufacturers instructions for proper sealing and hone the cylinders for the type of rings you are using. Not much more complicated than that old Ford six you put together.
Make sure you use a good zddp fortified oil package when you break in the engine to prevent wiping out your cam lobes. Use cam mfgr recommended break in procedure/coat lobes with break in lube.