I need a tutorial

A few things you should know about your inquiry-

- Torque converters should be matched in their stall speed to the range of power in which your camshaft has been designed to deliver the most power and torque from your engine. You want the stall RPM speed at the beginning of the power band/ range of your engine. It's best to leave this idea alone until you have decided what you want to do with your car, then build the engine, then taylor the transmission, converter and rear gear ratio to it's use.

-Windage trays, while they don't necessarily help performance on a low RPM engine, help engine life by extending oil life, by bringing the oil temperature down, away from the rotating parts. Factory 340's had them for RPM, but they can and will help any engine in the long run. If you are building an engine, you can set this up easily, but it's not going to make a street car quicker. This should be done with a decent build, unless you're not going to run it up in RPM.

- The factory timing chain and gear set in your car is garbage. They used nylon silenced gears for "quieter" operation. What actually happens over time is the nylon bits get ground to hell or just break off completely, leaving a single roller chain without a few complete teeth on the gears to climb. If that chain gets loose from age, by being stretched, like most of them do, it can jump a tooth on the gears and desynchronize your valvetrain and cause engine damage like bent valves, marred pistons or catastrophic failure like a broken valve that could go anywhere or cause any amount of damage to the head or cylinder.

A double roller chain is cheap insurance. You will see some improvement on your ignition timing staying steady without a stretched chain, as well as ditching those gears. The OEM part + age is the biggest reason to get a new chain/ get a double roller set. They stock more double roller sets than replacement chains at AutoZone because of this.

If you are looking to spend money on your A body, the first place I would recommend doing it would be that chain, the ignition system and to rebuild the entire front suspension so it doesn't scrub tires. It would also pay to replace the master and slave cylinders, flex lines and surface wear parts in your brakes. If you have discs, get new calipers. If you don't have discs and want them, '73+ setup with the upper control arm and proportioning block is a relatively inexpensive swap.