Electric Fuel Pump for Magnum Swap
I am in the process of swapping the 360 LA in my 70 Dart to a 360 Magnum (using either an Edelbrock or Holley 750cfm carb) and keeping the Magnum front end, so I am trying to figure out the details for an electric pump. My car still has the stock gas tank and pickup in it. I have read through quite a few of the threads on here and wanted to see if I have it right...
I am thinking of buying either the Summit Streep & Strip Fuel Pump and Regulator (SUM-G3136-2) kit or the Holley Blue Kit... Any recommendations for or against either of these?
I know that the Holley kits are noisy, but work well and you can keep them a bit more quiet with some rubber bushings in your mounting. I don't have any experience with the Summit stuff, but it's likely a similar situation. Most good aftermarket pumps are a little noisy. Either one will do good.
As far as mounting goes, I need to go as close to the tank as possible and mount the pump below it. Will I be able to run a return from the pump using the kits I am looking at?
I think you can, but I don't know that it's necessary. Returns are used to help higher pressure systems that have a lot of flow or a carburetor design that is utilizing a float with an electric pump and no regulator, to keep higher pressure from messing the needle and seat seal up.
Also, should I stick with the stock hard fuel line that runs to the front of the car, or should I look at replacing it?
I don't know what the flow or fuel consumption of your engine is going to be, but if it's stock and you have a carb, the stock 5/16" line should feed it. 3/8" should be used for higher flow levels, like if your carb needs to see more than 6-7psi.
Lastly, whoever owned the car before me installed an aftermarket fuel gauge that doesn't work. Any quick ideas for troubleshooting this while I am working on the fuel pump.
I'd start by looking at the gauge itself and see if it uses a remote pressure sending unit and wire, like a factory oil pressure gauge or a fuel feed line. If it's electronic, disconnect the feed lines and jump wires from it to the battery. If it's good, it should spike the needle. If it's mechanically fed from a fuel line, there is a small copper bladder inside of it that fills or becomes empty to increase or decrease it's reading.
Sometimes, the feed hole is small enough that if it's run before the fuel filter, contaminants can block the passage that feeds it. Other times, the copper bladder in it can malfunction with the needle linkages, along with the face of the gauge behind the needle and the slightest bind can make it work improperly.
If it's a mechanical gauge with a fuel feed that is in the cabin of the car, disconnect it, remove the fuel lines from inside, cap it off and don't die. You'd be surprised at how many people will run mechanical fuel pressure lines to the inside of the car and think it's ok.
Thanks in advance for the help! I have been reading the forums a lot but this is my first real post.
Everyone here is helpful. Don't hesitate!