duralast ball joints vs moog

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im going to use the 11/16" tie rod ends, and solid sleeves. the originality doesnt concern me. the heavy duty ones are what i want, glad you could find all original stuff. i will be looking as well.

I think the 11/16" will be C body tie rod ends if I recall correctly. They are generally real cheap on eBay.
 
I'm not sure if this company makes ball joints for vintage stuff but XRF Chassis has by far the most superior ball joint on the market today. They are Canadian made. Far more tensile strength than Moog. I used them on a customer's suburban that hauls horse trailers over 140k miles ago and they are still tight. They are worth the extra dough. Oh and by the way the owner of XRF was an original engineer of Spicer.
 
saw XRF ones on ebay didnt know how good they were. thanks for the input


If you look on their website they have cutaways and give detail to their strict manufacturing standards. I tried them out because I saw a video on a machine that tests the tensile strength by trying to seperate the ball from the socket. They out did Moog and Spicer by nearly a third on each test. Plus, seeing them last that long on the Burb and still be tight i'm sold! I put XRF uppers in my 2002 Envoy 40k ago and so far so good.
 
maybe not USA made but glad to hear that you can still get a quality product at least made in north america. rather buy canadian well made parts, than hunt for old NOS that people now think are gold, or that may not even be available anymore, or trust chinese made low quality junk with an american name on it.

thanks for your input, thats the type of input i think folks on this thread wanted. quality parts at a decent price. check out their website, sounds pretty good, 1 million mile warranty, plus the real world use like 71scamper was talking about. i dont think the cuda will get 140K more miles on it in my lifetime after i complete it so its probably good.

found a place called mibearings.com that sells XRF ball joints and rod ends direct to the public. even set up for paypal, tho most people are these days LOL. priced my uppers, lowers, and 11/16" inner and outer tie rod ends $117.42 plus shipping. i also looked at their website, and looked up info on them on the net. sounds like a very good product for a reasonable price. thats all im asking for. thanks again 71scamper. im thinking, or i should say XRF is the way im going.

you can build these cars and not break the bank as well as get good quality stuff for a decent price. check out dillinger chassis too. their tubular uppers built up and ready to go are $230 a pair. their strut rods with heim ends are $170. these 2 prices are way cheaper than PST and hotchkis for these parts, and are just as well made. lets help out the little guy check out johns quality parts at dillinger chassis too.
 
No the lower ball joints are not on backward lol.... I have another set coming this week so we see if USA moogs. :0)
 
Hey sledgehammer, check out XRF. Looks like maybe a better quality part and a reasonable price too. Since they dont sell to auto parts stores, just service garages it seems, makes it hard to find a retailer. I did find a company who sells em to the public. Im going to go with XRF. Price was reasonable too. Quote was $117 plus shipping for uppers, lowers, inner and outer tie rod ends 11/16" type. I didnt price idler arm, or pitman arm as i want to go with C body parts, and XRF only makes a C body idler arm.

Anybody got a new pitman arm for a 69 to 74 C body they want to sell?
 
After following this thread I went out to the garage to check out some Moog lower balljoints I bought from Rockauto to use when installing Kelseyhayes front discs on my 67 Barracuda.

The boxes say made in USA but does not on the part. It also says FederalMogul in small print on the end of the box. I put the balljoint against the spindle and they fit together good, no gaps like sledgehammer's had.

I also recently bought some Moog/Precision U-joints from Rockauto. They offer several brand choices at different price levels. In the pictures they have of the Moog part you could see it said USA right on the part. I looked at them after receiving them and they were just like the picture. They too say FederalMogul in small print on the box.
 
Got my XRF balljoints, and 11/16 inner and outer tie rods coming. Total $145. Still have to get pitman and idler arms. Will prob buy the fast ratio set from PST, i will post pix and let y'all know when i get them.

Prob gonna get a set for my daytona shelby too. Tho this car will be much cheaper, only lower ball joints, and outer tierods are needed as its rack n pinion and strut suspension

Glad i started this thread, otherwise i wouldent have known new moog is crap, auto parrs store stuff is crap, or even know about XRF, and their products with a million mile guarantee

Thank you FABO
 
Did you have to call them to see if the have the XRF parts for an A body? The catalog only goes back to 1985. Maybe I was looking too hard to see it! LOL :banghead:
 
I put the balljoint against the spindle and they fit together good, no gaps like sledgehammer's had.I.

I believe what's causing his issue is that the bolt holes are not perpendicular to the mounting face. So when you put the bolts in, they are tight enough in the holes that they pull the mounting face away.
 
Mibearings.com has all the ball joints , and the 11/16 inner and outer tierod ends. Except the R/H passenger side lower. Prices were exellent there too. You have to use the moog part numbers with the XRF prefix to look them up. Example a large mopar upper ball joint 73 up A body moog # K772, would be a XRF K772.

I contacted XRF, explained i still needed the XRF K781 ball joint. Mark at XRF gave me the phone number of a supply house in Garland Tx near dallas. Closest to me. They had one XRF K781 left on the shelf. I bought it.

Since the supplier sets their pricing it can be way different from store to store if you buy them from different sources to get a set. Mibearings.com had the uppers, and all the tie rod ends for $11 and change each, and the one lower for $22 and change, plus shipping. I felt like i was scamming them getting XRF parts from them for autozone prices LOL. The place in garland tx wanted $43 plus shipping for the other lower. A price i gladly payed since i got the other XRF pieces super cheap.

I believe XRF also has the idler arm and pitman arm for A body mopars too. I am going to go with a fast ratio setup which requires C body pitman and idler, so its more cost effective to buy those as a set from PST. These arms dont take as much wear and abuse as the tierod ends and balljoints anyways, plus i only use a synthetic grease in my grease gun.
 
Mibearings.com has all the ball joints , and the 11/16 inner and outer tierod ends. Except the R/H passenger side lower. Prices were exellent there too. You have to use the moog part numbers with the XRF prefix to look them up. Example a large mopar upper ball joint 73 up A body moog # K772, would be a XRF K772.

I got the moog part numbers from rock auto since you can look up your car and get the moog part numbers, then go to mibearings.com add the XRF prefix to the front of the moog part number on their site and viola their site will allow you to buy it online, quantity counts paypal etc.

I contacted XRF, explained i still needed the XRF K781 ball joint. Mark at XRF gave me the phone number of a supply house in Garland Tx near dallas. Closest to me. They had one XRF K781 left on the shelf. I bought it.

Since the supplier sets their pricing it can be way different from store to store if you buy them from different sources to get a set. Mibearings.com had the uppers, and all the tie rod ends for $11 and change each, and the one lower for $22 and change, plus shipping. I felt like i was scamming them getting XRF parts from them for autozone prices LOL. The place in garland tx wanted $43 plus shipping for the other lower. A price i gladly payed since i got the other XRF pieces super cheap.

I believe XRF also has the idler arm and pitman arm for A body mopars too. I am going to go with a fast ratio setup which requires C body pitman and idler, so its more cost effective to buy those as a set from PST. These arms dont take as much wear and abuse as the tierod ends and balljoints anyways, plus i only use a synthetic grease in my grease gun.
 
Good luck on this, it's tough to find anything made in north america these days.
 
Mark told me that as well, however the parts are made to their standard, which is exceedingly high compared to moog now made in china. Since they make their parts to this higher standard i will be going with them.

Lots of stuff made in countries other than the US, its made to whatever standard the company wants it to be, apparantly moog just got cheap, as their US made stuff is the only stuff thats any good. Im not interested in looking for a needle in the proverbial haystack to build my front end.
 
Mark told me that as well, however the parts are made to their standard, which is exceedingly high compared to moog now made in china. Since they make their parts to this higher standard i will be going with them.

Lots of stuff made in countries other than the US, its made to whatever standard the company wants it to be, apparantly moog just got cheap, as their US made stuff is the only stuff thats any good. Im not interested in looking for a needle in the proverbial haystack to build my front end.

I am not trashing them, or recommending them, as I have no first hand knowledge of their part quality. I just wanted to clear up any misconecptions, as to their origin.
 
lol.. they all say that crap..

Maybe so but I have first hand real world experience with the XRF line and I Strongly recommend them! Not that I don't like Moog but if I used Moog in that burb from earlier in this thread then I would of definitely been doing them again before the 140k mile mark.

Giving the fact that most of us won't put that kind of miles on our classic Mopars then yes Moog would be sufficient to use but if it fails after a year then your SOL for free replacement. XRF is so confident in their product they give you a million mile warranty.
 
Lots of stuff made in countries other than the US, its made to whatever standard the company wants it to be, apparantly moog just got cheap, as their US made stuff is the only stuff thats any good.

Any one can make good quality parts, but there will always be some defects during a production run. This is where quality control comes in.
Years ago, I worked in a manufacturing plant. The items we made came out of the machine at the rate of 300 per minute. They were inspected by automatic machine, and by human eye as they passed down the packaging line. Every so often, a defect would get by. These item were shipped by 18 wheeler about 100 miles to the customer. When the customer recieved the truck, a QC inspector would pull some randome cases of parts and inspect them right on the recieving dock, We were allowed one "major" (functional) defect, or three "minor" (cosmetic) defects. during that inspection. If they found more, the entire truckload was rejected, and returned to our company, at our expense, and we had to reinspect the entire load by hand. How many companies would go to this expense, today?
 
Maybe so but I have first hand real world experience with the XRF line and I Strongly recommend them! Not that I don't like Moog but if I used Moog in that burb from earlier in this thread then I would of definitely been doing them again before the 140k mile mark.

Giving the fact that most of us won't put that kind of miles on our classic Mopars then yes Moog would be sufficient to use but if it fails after a year then your SOL for free replacement. XRF is so confident in their product they give you a million mile warranty.

A question, if XRF no longer had the single lower ball joint that he had to get out of Garland Texas what good is a million mile warranty if they is nothing to replace it?

I don't know where you get your Moog parts from but our parts house has a lifetime warranty to the original purchaser although I never had to replace one. I will avoid China Moog so at some point I will be forced to seek out something different should I build a car that uses something different than what I have now.
 
I have been talking to mark at XRF. this part is on backorder right now. I also asked him to concider trying to sell these parts to companies like PST and yearone. This would help them make a bit more money, give their company more exposure, and insure these parts would be available for years to come for us if XRF does this.

If their quality is what all the forums are saying it is, then i dont think i will have a problem with these parts. A guy on one of the diesel forums up in calgary canada has been running these on his diesel ford pickup for over 250,000 miles. No issues. I have not found any negative press on them. Only good reviews from people with lots of miles on them. Thats enough for me to buy them.

Yes there can be defects in anything thats manufactured. It is made by humans after all. However it seems their defect/replacement count is extremely low. I will take my chances on these.

Good luck to everybody with whatever product you purchase. Moog, raybestos, XRF , federal mogul etc. only time will tell if these hold up, but concidering im not going to do any offroading in calgary, or put over 250k on this car im sure with using synthetic grease and the way it will be driven most of the time they will last my lifetime
 
A question, if XRF no longer had the single lower ball joint that he had to get out of Garland Texas what good is a million mile warranty if they is nothing to replace it?

XRF doesnt sell to auto parts chains like autozone, only mechanic shops, and parts warehouses that sell to service garages, XRF doesnt sell directly to the public either, you have to get their parts thru the parts warehouses that purchase them for sale to service garages. This is why when mibearings didnt have the one lower in stock i contacted mark at XRF to find another parts warehouse near me who might the other ball joint in stock. I got lucky to find mibearings parts distributer online and they had almost all the parts except 1 thing.

This part is on backorder from XRF, nothing was said about obsoleting it. I imagine once more people know about these parts there may be a run on them. I got mine. And put the info out there for anybody else wanting XRF parts. Gonna order the pieces i need for my daytona shelby next
 
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