340 compression ratio

Nothingbutdarts and Jrlegacy23 - there has got to be a reason that cavity is there? What does it connect to? Why is it so rusty? If its not needed why doesn't the intake manifold cap it off just like it does for the heat cross over? It's just open to dirt water ect...doesn't make any sense....I think I remember one time I ran a quarter mile race and it got up to temp and maybe a little high on temp on the return track and it seemed like there was coolant trying to boil out of there. Jrlegacy23 if it is not part of coolant passages....what is it part of?

So I must have a cast crank based off the shape of that balancer? So if it is a cast crank it is internally balanced? I thought that was what the harmonic balancer was for? What would be different if you had a forged crank?

The guy I bought the car from was building it for drag racing...so i guess that is the direction I will continue to go in. It's really close to ground and he cut the main factory frame rails out and welding in some heavy rectangular tubing. So it can take the torque without twisting the factory frame. The oil pan and headers are about three inches of the ground. I guess I would like to get the car in the 12 second range.

Rick...so it is a 904 transmission ... Those blanks I put in there were unreadable....pitted out so bad. I don't have a dust cover so ya I could rotate and count the teeth on the flywheel.....ohhhh wait you were talking about ring gear on the differential...ummmm gear ratio counting driveline rotations would tell you the ratio correct? Right now I have a 390 in the differential and I have a 456 I was thinking about using with a taller tire to get me down the track faster...with the 390 and the stock size tires I just burn out the whole time durning 1st and most of 2nd. So there must be a way to adjust the shift flare delay?

sireland67 the pistons have a 30 stamped on the top...it looks like by the way the top of the pistons are machined I would say they are forged and I think they are aluminum? How do you come up with 8.5 compression? I didn't even think to do a compression test before I tore down....could I compression test the other side that I don't have apart...I got a compression tester, I could hook it up and manually turn the engine with a big wrench at the crank shaft and watch the gauge.? I also got the cylinder head cc kit that mark suggested so I can start figuring the compression ratio exactly. Adjustable rockers from a 273...that's good huh? Or should I think about roller rockers? Would I be able to look up those pistons for their volume of the valve notches? Or are these ones considered flat pistons.? So if they are considered flat you don't have to worry about piston volume in the math equation to finding the compression ratio? I don't really understand the "1/2" down fill" method to finding dome volume.

I think my oil pressure was generally around 40psi....and i think the guy said he was running Kendal 50 w. or Kendall Gt-1 high performance motor oil.

Fuel pump is a Mallory with a high flow filter, I wanna say around ten pounds of pressure that I can remember going into each side of the 750 double pumper.

I found a tag in all the paper work that says: installed height 1.710 AStar 90 LBS 280" @ .500 lift. What would this mean.?

Abodybomber - you lost me there hahaha.....I'm still learning the language...

I need to order new head gaskets...I got the part number of the existing gaskets...Mc6911G which I guess is Mc cord brand...which are out of business due to asbestos problems....I was hoping to look up the part number to get the bore and gasket thickness size, but I can't find anything. What do I measure on the cylinder wall to reorder the correct size...and how about thickness....brand? Bolts?

Right on!!! Thanks for all your help guys really appreciate all the input!!!! Keep on keepin on! yeeeeehaaawww

Steve
:D