Solid vs Hydraulic

flyfish said
Just FYI, a solid roller of that size will need some pretty fat springs, which are not easy to fit in a small block. It can be done, but most springs for a cam that size are at least 1.55" in diameter and will require a high quality rocker to survive under the high spring pressures (probably about 220lbs on the seat and 600lbs open I'm guessing). Just something to consider when pricing stuff out.

The springs don't need to be that aggressive. I have RHS Heads done by Brian at IMM that are set up for a Solid Roller .634 Lift. Spring pressures are 145lbs Closed and 510 Open.

MOPER; IMO - if you're considering runnig a hydraulic roller - just skip the expense and run a solid flat tappet. The hydraulic roller is nice but the lifters are heavy, they still wil lcompress and limit ramp speed and rpm, and the pushrod angle really sucks (have the pushrod holes enlarged in any head you use).
If you run a solid roller - which would be my recommendation if the break in still frightens you - then "do it right (again, IMO)" and have the block's lifter bores bushed, keep the cam profile in the "street" zone, and run a high quality set of lifters. A good solid roller, set up properly, will provide a lot of milage without rebuilding or wearing out springs and make a ton of power.

I am using Manton 3/8 pushrods that oil through with 5/16 tips on the RHS Heads. The Pushrod holes in the heads were not touched. They must be a lil bigger than the rest. I am also using Brian's Solid Roller Lifters that have the oil provisions that squirt right on the roller. I use oil thru pushrods on all my LA builds to keep pressurized oil on the ball and cup of the Rocker. The valve adjustment holds very well for long periods of time since I have been doing this.