Breathing new life into the 318 in the Scamp!
Got all of the parts in, finally. Everything on the cylinder heads checks out to spec, install height is good on stems and springs, seal clearance is good top/bottom and sides.
Tore the upper half of the engine apart, plus timing cover, etc. Pulled the cam and was greeted with an ugly stick. I thought I had varnished lifters that developed ticking over the course of getting parts ready for this swap.
Nope. #2 Exhaust, #6 Intake, #6 Exhaust, all flat. #6 spinning lifters, bowled lifter faces, #2 scored with some side play in the wipe pattern.
Lifter bores do not look damaged, feel ok with original lifters and drop. The bores will likely spin new ones, but I was going to just do a dry run with the new cam and lifters, by hand using WD-40 on the sides of the lifters and oil on the bearing journals.
Until I inspected the bearings, soft parts of lands missing bits, #2 bearing from the front shifted rearward, shrouding oil hole, likely the cause of the cam's death among other things, but none of them are spun.
Cylinders look typical. Minimal ridge, if any, did not smoke up until about 3 weeks ago, likely from #6 cyl not getting much flow and flooding everything else. Never any blue smoke.
So, now for my question...
Do I even screw with this engine? I can replace bearings, burnish the lifter holes if they don't check out with new lifters spinning on a dry test and go, or do I get something else going?
I have access to several 318's (and 3 360's, but I'm going to leave those alone)... One 318 is bored and honed .030", bare block, I have a .010/ .020" crank that is unused on the new cut, can't remember if it's cast or forged, have to check and see... I have an '80's pre-roller engine that I haven't pulled the cylinder head from, but I have pulled the intake. Lifters look good, it's complete.
Options:
-Fix what's in the car.
-Put the parts on the fresh 318 with fresh crank, buy pistons, bearings and rings after mic., pay to put rods on pistons. I have a new pump, freeze plugs, gaskets, etc. Baffle the pan.
-Check the 80's engine for cylinder wear and put the parts in that engine, hone, re-ring, save some money on pistons and rings. Baffle the pan.
It's just a carb swap, guys. I promise.
Got all of the parts in, finally. Everything on the cylinder heads checks out to spec, install height is good on stems and springs, seal clearance is good top/bottom and sides.
Tore the upper half of the engine apart, plus timing cover, etc. Pulled the cam and was greeted with an ugly stick. I thought I had varnished lifters that developed ticking over the course of getting parts ready for this swap.
Nope. #2 Exhaust, #6 Intake, #6 Exhaust, all flat. #6 spinning lifters, bowled lifter faces, #2 scored with some side play in the wipe pattern.
Lifter bores do not look damaged, feel ok with original lifters and drop. The bores will likely spin new ones, but I was going to just do a dry run with the new cam and lifters, by hand using WD-40 on the sides of the lifters and oil on the bearing journals.
Until I inspected the bearings, soft parts of lands missing bits, #2 bearing from the front shifted rearward, shrouding oil hole, likely the cause of the cam's death among other things, but none of them are spun.
Cylinders look typical. Minimal ridge, if any, did not smoke up until about 3 weeks ago, likely from #6 cyl not getting much flow and flooding everything else. Never any blue smoke.
So, now for my question...
Do I even screw with this engine? I can replace bearings, burnish the lifter holes if they don't check out with new lifters spinning on a dry test and go, or do I get something else going?
I have access to several 318's (and 3 360's, but I'm going to leave those alone)... One 318 is bored and honed .030", bare block, I have a .010/ .020" crank that is unused on the new cut, can't remember if it's cast or forged, have to check and see... I have an '80's pre-roller engine that I haven't pulled the cylinder head from, but I have pulled the intake. Lifters look good, it's complete.
Options:
-Fix what's in the car.
-Put the parts on the fresh 318 with fresh crank, buy pistons, bearings and rings after mic., pay to put rods on pistons. I have a new pump, freeze plugs, gaskets, etc. Baffle the pan.
-Check the 80's engine for cylinder wear and put the parts in that engine, hone, re-ring, save some money on pistons and rings. Baffle the pan.
It's just a carb swap, guys. I promise.