12 Second N/A Slant 6?
It can be done, but not easily or cheaply. The hardest part is keeping it "street driver". I know you said N/A, but N2o would be the best way in my opinion. My 66 Cuda has a totally stock short block 170 , with a mild cam (.434 lift, 264 dur, 232
[email protected]) Milled head (39cc chambers) stock valves and 340 springs. Clifford headers, stock 1 bbl intake, modified to mount a 500 cfm 2bbl Holley carb, and nitrous fogger nozzles, MSD 6A ignition. 3,000 rpm converter, 3.91 SG 8 3/4 rear, and 8x23x13 slicks. Car weighs 3250 with driver, and runs low 13's in the quarter at about 100 mph.
My 66 Valiant is similar but has a 225 but with Offie intake and 390 Holley 4 bbl and 125 hp plate system (actually two 125 plates, but have never used the second stage, yet). This car has run low 13's also, and is capable of 12's but we have had some other issues, that have prevented a 12 sec run. This car was built for about $2,000 including buying the car, and it weighs just under 2700 lbs with driver, but does not have street equipment.
I want to run a moderate shot of N
20, but I would like to get to the 12 second mark N/A.
My experience W/nitrous is that a good breathinmg N/A engine that is not too high in compression will respond very well to a shot.
That's why I want to stay in the 10-10.5:1 CR range.
As far as running 12s, I'm talking about ideal track conditions, low DA at an east coast track.
12.99 is just a target. I'm not expecting to run 12.99 on an august day in the 90s at a midwestern track. 13.8s would be a realistic target under those conditions.
Money is a realitive term. I have seen lot's of $$$$ wasted. I've been hotrodding everthing from Gen III Crysler Hemis to Panhead hogs, british motorcycle twins & now I'm doing my thing on 4-stroke model aircraft engines making 4hp N/A from a 1.8 cubic inch 4 srtroke engine.
The rotating assembly would be a stock geometry crank, aftermarket rods & aftermarket 2.2L Chryler forged pistons.
Extensive head work is a given. Much of the hand work involved I can do myself.
Torque convertor technology has come a long way in the last few years.
I have a billit stator TC in my '06 charger that flashes to over 3600 RPM that is perfectly streetable as long as I don't get too quick on the loud pedal & keep traction control engaged.
Not interested in E-85, it's non existant where I live.
Having everthing working together can make a HUGE difference.
The cam, TC, induction, exhaust etc have to be working in the same RPM range. Get any of those components out of sync & you go backwards.
It just seems that if I can get a stock 5.7 rotating assembly powered 4300# '06 Charger to run 12 flat N/A while still getting 26MPG, I should be able to get a car that weighs just a little more than 1/2 that to run 13 flat W/a little more than 1/2 the hp.
The 5.7 was making 426 RWHP/460 RWTQ.
