engine turns over, will not fire
Important to understand that in Mopars, cranking ignition voltage is DIFFERENT if you
1--Are cranking the engine using the key, which shoots direct 12V to the coil, or........
2--Are jumpering the start relay with key in run, which gives you less power
In other words, a "no start" you need to check spark using the key, two people if required.
If you can't otherwise, you can "Rig" a spark gap so you can see it. Get in, where you can reach the key, look out through the hood gap, and see what you can see. Then remove one plug and a wire, and lay the plug up on the engine so you can see it. Hook that one plug, with it's wire, to the coil. Then go crank with the key. You should get a nice hot spark.
If not, leave the key in "run" and go out to the engine bay. Find the starter relay which looks something like this:
With the key in "run" use a screwdriver to jumper the largest two exposed terminals, the stud and the "square" terminal. Be darn sure the gearbox in in park or neutral. Look for a spark at your plug
If you get no spark, it's time for a multimeter or a test lamp. With the key in "run" put your test lamp on coil NEG and jumper the star relay to crank the engine. You should see the lamp "flash" as the engine turns.
If the lamp either lights or does not light, but does not flash, either the points are burned so they won't conduct, or are worn so they won't open. With the cap off, "bump" the engine so the points are "closed," on the flat of the distributor cam lobes
Now with your light or meter on the coil POSitive, you should get some voltage, maybe only 6V with key in run. Using as small screwdriver to manually open the points, the light on the coil positive should go bright, or the meter should go from low to "same as battery," IE about 12.5V
So could be
A--you are not getting power to the coil
B--points are damaged and not opening or closing
C--condenser (inside the distributor) is bad
D--coil wire is bad and not conduction spark to the cap
E--rotor/ cap are so dirty that they are shorting spark. Dirt moisture, carbon tracks
F--bad coil
Diagrams for your car, somewhat useable, not always complete
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65DartA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65DartB.jpg
Even though your car is a 64, and there are some differences, you can download a free Mopar shop manual for a 66 here. Much of the engine stuff is the same. You'll have to play with page numbers as they show up consecutive in your browser.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
Also, there's some very good info here
Punch "browse by topic" or " browse by year"
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=117
this page
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=441
and this is a very good read
[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/201.pdf[/ame]
Important to understand that in Mopars, cranking ignition voltage is DIFFERENT if you
1--Are cranking the engine using the key, which shoots direct 12V to the coil, or........
2--Are jumpering the start relay with key in run, which gives you less power
In other words, a "no start" you need to check spark using the key, two people if required.
If you can't otherwise, you can "Rig" a spark gap so you can see it. Get in, where you can reach the key, look out through the hood gap, and see what you can see. Then remove one plug and a wire, and lay the plug up on the engine so you can see it. Hook that one plug, with it's wire, to the coil. Then go crank with the key. You should get a nice hot spark.
If not, leave the key in "run" and go out to the engine bay. Find the starter relay which looks something like this:
With the key in "run" use a screwdriver to jumper the largest two exposed terminals, the stud and the "square" terminal. Be darn sure the gearbox in in park or neutral. Look for a spark at your plug
If you get no spark, it's time for a multimeter or a test lamp. With the key in "run" put your test lamp on coil NEG and jumper the star relay to crank the engine. You should see the lamp "flash" as the engine turns.
If the lamp either lights or does not light, but does not flash, either the points are burned so they won't conduct, or are worn so they won't open. With the cap off, "bump" the engine so the points are "closed," on the flat of the distributor cam lobes
Now with your light or meter on the coil POSitive, you should get some voltage, maybe only 6V with key in run. Using as small screwdriver to manually open the points, the light on the coil positive should go bright, or the meter should go from low to "same as battery," IE about 12.5V
So could be
A--you are not getting power to the coil
B--points are damaged and not opening or closing
C--condenser (inside the distributor) is bad
D--coil wire is bad and not conduction spark to the cap
E--rotor/ cap are so dirty that they are shorting spark. Dirt moisture, carbon tracks
F--bad coil
Diagrams for your car, somewhat useable, not always complete
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65DartA.jpg
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1965/65DartB.jpg
Even though your car is a 64, and there are some differences, you can download a free Mopar shop manual for a 66 here. Much of the engine stuff is the same. You'll have to play with page numbers as they show up consecutive in your browser.
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/servicemanuals/1966_Plymouth_Service_Manual.zip
Also, there's some very good info here
Punch "browse by topic" or " browse by year"
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=117
this page
http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=441
and this is a very good read
[ame]http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/201.pdf[/ame]