318 or 360? That is my question...

Good book. I have built my first two engines with that book and great success has followed. Rebuilding what you have will be the cheapest route to take. It is still expensive to do. Also take the time to visit a machinists shop to have everything done rather than a local shop. This will save money in the long run.

Once the machinist has the engine parts, starting with the block, he will go through it and let you know exactly what the part may need or not. You must sit down with him and let him know exactly what you want from the engine performance wise. Tell him it is a daily driver that IS daily driven.

After the block is looked at, then move to the crank, then the connecting rods and then a piston choice can be made. Gather the crank, rods, pistons and rings to have it balanced. Once this is done, your ready to assemble the short block.

(Have bags (available through summit or Jegs) to wrap the parts in to a kid rust and other damage. Keep a clean work area!)

Then move onto the heads. Deliver them for inspection and rebuilding.
A stock type of rebuild can handle some cam shaft. The machinist will need to know what lift the cam is going to be and what spring will be used. A MoPar or Crane Cam's spring requires no machine work while a Comp Cam spring requires machine work to install.

A quick word on lifters, there are two style of Hyd. lifters. Both can be used. One is designed to oil through the pushrods. This can be used in non oiling pushrods without issue. The first .010 and last .010 of the plungers travel is useless and the pushrod should depress the lifters plunger at least that .010 downward apon installation and not beyond .090 into the last .010 of the total .100 plunger travel.

This is a fun and easy project to do when you have that book, a good machinist and of course, us for back up and tech. Share pictures and have at it.