replacement intake studs

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zac_F71

zac_F71

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Looking for alternative studs/bolts for the intake/exhaust of my Demons 225.. anyone have something that worked or an idea?

I was thinking of some 1.5" grade 8 bolts?
 
I see do you have a part number for the ARP's?

All I find is 1.625(1 5/8") and 2.25" and the originals I have are 1 3/4"
 
I used the dorman from o'reillys auto 89 cents a piece. be sure to use thread sealer on the upper studs they thread into the water jackets.
 

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Remove one of the old studs from the head and take it to a hardware store, parts store, or Fastenal. Have them match it up with a grade 8 stud with washers and nuts for the manifold side.

Some of the hardware stores by me are obsoleting the studs. Fastenal should have some, look them up on the internet and see if they have an outlet near you.

Also, my Ace hardware says that they can order the nuts/bolts/studs if they are not in stock.

The studs make it easier for you to hang and line up the manifolds while installing. Try supporting the intake and exhaust manifolds and then try to find the hole for the stud and get it threaded in without cross threading.... Go with studs.... Be 'studly"...
 
I would not even consider the bolt idea. Partly what krazykuda said about aligning it., but also you need to use the special triangle washers and set up right so the studs don't touch the manifolds.
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krazykuda said:
Remove one of the old studs from the head and take it to a hardware store, parts store, or Fastenal. Have them match it up with a grade 8 stud with washers and nuts for the manifold side.

Some of the hardware stores by me are obsoleting the studs. Fastenal should have some, look them up on the internet and see if they have an outlet near you.

Also, my Ace hardware says that they can order the nuts/bolts/studs if they are not in stock.

The studs make it easier for you to hang and line up the manifolds while installing. Try supporting the intake and exhaust manifolds and then try to find the hole for the stud and get it threaded in without cross threading.... Go with studs.... Be 'studly"...
Click to expand...
 
Is it just the uppers that hit water and need to be sealed? I am going to be putting mine back together soon and most of my studs are still in the head and in good shape. I was thinking of pulling and re-sealing them, but did not want to mess with any that I don't have to. What is best thing to seal the threads with?

67/6barracuda said:
I used the dorman from o'reillys auto 89 cents a piece. be sure to use thread sealer on the upper studs they thread into the water jackets.
Click to expand...
 
you cant not use those guys.... they have to be hardened due to the extreme heat from the exh... autozone carries multiple length 5/16 course (head side) and 5/16 fine (nut side) in different lengths... i can remember what size i decided worked best bt i think it was 1.5" OAL.

also make sure to get the hardened nuts (gold colored), the set runs about 50 bucks
 
zkx14 said:
Silver seal has them.

http://www.silver-seal.com/product/6403/Manifold-Stud-For-225-Slant-6-Dodge---516-18-24-x-188.html

Anybody know where to get the 5/16 bolts that hold the manifolds together bythe carb?

They are almost 3-1/2" long and have about 1-3/4 inches of thread. Standard bolt that size does not have enough thread and fullyl threaded that I found was only grade 2. Originals were grade 5, but would prefer to go to gr 8.
Click to expand...
go buy the bolt length that'll work and a 5/16-18 die to make the threads longer is what I did on my 87 D150's 225 and use permatex thread sealant
 
805moparkid said:
you cant not use those guys.... they have to be hardened due to the extreme heat from the exh... autozone carries multiple length 5/16 course (head side) and 5/16 fine (nut side) in different lengths... i can remember what size i decided worked best bt i think it was 1.5" OAL.

also make sure to get the hardened nuts (gold colored), the set runs about 50 bucks
Click to expand...
Got part numbers?

I'm about to order the ARP chromoly SBF intake bolt kit and say F the studs in the middle.. only run 2 grade 8 carb studs on the outer/top bolt holes for the exh. mani.
 
zac_F71 said:
go buy the bolt length that'll work and a 5/16-18 die to make the threads longer is what I did on my 87 D150's 225 and use permatex thread sealant
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, that is what I was figuring, already got the regular bolts, but thought I'd see if anybody found them. My understanding is that the outside of any hardened bolt is the hardest part. The part I will need to thread (removing the outer layer)ends up at the top of the exhaust manifold - right where the originals snapped when I removed them.
 
zac_F71 said:
Got part numbers?

I'm about to order the ARP chromoly SBF intake bolt kit and say F the studs in the middle.. only run 2 grade 8 carb studs on the outer/top bolt holes for the exh. mani.
Click to expand...

no you just ask them to see their hardend exh studs...
 
805moparkid said:
no you just ask them to see their hardend exh studs...
Click to expand...
Just read ARP chromoly bolts are heat treated.. problem solved.. (for me at least haha)

Plus these only need 15ft/lbs max and these ARP bolts use a 3/8" hex head so the bottoms will be easier to get to then the 1/2" nut of the norm.

you have to remember the flanges are 1/2" thick, then you have to account for the spanner washers which are at least 1/4" thick and the threads in the head are at least 5/8" 3/4" deep

Summit part numbers- (washers are also included and I plan on using them)

ARP-154-2001 -SBF 2" under head length intake bolts (12ct you need 11)
ARP-651-1250 -1.25" under head length bolts set of 5 you need 2 for exh. mani. ends

these 2 sets are $37.. you won't get individual ARP bolts cheaper than this..
 
zac_F71 said:
Just read ARP chromoly bolts are heat treated.. problem solved.. (for me at least haha)

Plus these only need 15ft/lbs max and these ARP bolts use a 3/8" hex head so the bottoms will be easier to get to then the 1/2" nut of the norm.

you have to remember the flanges are 1/2" thick, then you have to account for the spanner washers which are at least 1/4" thick and the threads in the head are at least 5/8" 3/4" deep

Summit part numbers- (washers are also included and I plan on using them)

ARP-154-2001 -SBF 2" under head length intake bolts (12ct you need 11)
ARP-651-1250 -1.25" under head length bolts set of 5 you need 2 for exh. mani. ends

these 2 sets are $37.. you won't get individual ARP bolts cheaper than this..
Click to expand...

you'll kill your self using bolts but do what ever you want...

and the studs i told you about are double ended (fine/course). the problem you'll run into is that due to the curve of the header tubes you wont be able to get the flanges to sit flat because the studs are to long, they will hit the tubes, second is depending on the shape of the rear tube the stud will be so long you can get the rear header off because it hits the master cylinder before clearing the stud.

i dont remember exactly how long my studs are but they were as long as i could go with 3/8" flanges, you are effectively made the usable space shorter so your will have to be more exact.

i would do a mock up assuming you have the headers/intake built and fitted and see how much room you have, then use a cheap stud and see if you can actually R&R the assembly,pieces...
 

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I'm using stock stuff (intake/exhaust) I sold my hooker header/ offy 4bbl intake on here awhile ago.. so that is the reason for using bolts instead of studs.. it will be much easier I feel cause I already had stockers and carb studs strip out while tightening the works down..

Sorry I left that out..

I'm temporarily getting the slant going to enjoy the car while I build the new drive train..

centrifugal supercharged magnum 5.9/46RE from a 2wd truck.. efi and all
 
I have not read all the replies so I may be missing something. But, why would you want grade 8 studs? The nut only requires 10ft lbs to tighten up.
Sorry if I am missing something. Jut wondering
 
zac_F71 said:
centrifugal supercharged magnum 5.9/46RE from a 2wd truck.. efi and all
Click to expand...

Sounds like my '72 Valiant except for the efi. I am using a 750 double pumper and a 904, so no overdrive.

It's a Vortech V-i, S-trim blower making 10 pounds of boost. Runs mid 11's at about 118 mph; showed to make 447 rear wheel hp on av gas.

I've had a lot of fun with it.

Here's a photo or two...
 

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HemiPar said:
I have not read all the replies so I may be missing something. But, why would you want grade 8 studs? The nut only requires 10ft lbs to tighten up.
Sorry if I am missing something. Jut wondering
Click to expand...
I've stripped the stock studs before - I want something that won't strip.. ARP bolts are rated MUCH higher than grd8 and heat treated
 
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