Got fuel, spark, comp but no start
What you claim cannot happen. If you really do have
compression
spark (at the right time)
fuel (GOOD fuel)
It will RUN.
Numba Won (1)---pull the plugs and inspect them for fuel / oil fouling.
Teu (2) Stop screwing and guessing with timing. Set it ONCE and KNOW it will run and forget about it.
So Stick your finger in the no1 plug hole, and crank "bump" until you feel compression. Then pay attention to the timing marks and wrench the engine until the marks WHICH SHOULD BE ON THEIR WAY "UP" -- NOT NOT NOT to TDC but rather to where you want the intitial timing, IE about 15 BTC.
Set the distributor so that whatever plug tower has no1 wire in it is just being approached corner to corner by the rotor, and so that the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup coil.
Tha -REE (3) Now, since you have starting problems, METHODICALLY troubleshoot for spark. It is IMPORTANT to understand that testing for spark by cranking the engine by jumpering the starter relay IS NOT the same as using the KEY. This is because the coil resistor bypass circuit, (ign 2 mentioned above) is not active if you jumper the start relay. HOWEVER this can BE a useful exercise if you suspect that IGN2 has a PROBLEM.
MAKE CERTAIN the IGN system has POWER. Then use a grounded probe such as a clip lead and a screwdriver, held near the top of the COIL TOWER to check for spark. If you get a nice hot spark there, install the coil wire, and move your clip/ probe to a plug tower in the cap. Make sure to crank long enough that the rotor comes clear 'round' as the dist. only rotates ONCE for every TWO crank revolutions.
Go to the MSD page and download the destructions for the 6A. There is troubleshooting destructions in the install sheet.
If you did NOT get spark at the coil tower, find out WHY. DO you have power to the ignition?
The MSD should have a large red and black which go to battery and ground. The "small red" must have 12V to "energize" the box, and this is normally hooked to IGN1 / IGN2 when jumpered together. This is the old dark blue "ignition run" and the brown "bypass" circuit.
MAKE SURE the white wire is taped off safely and IS NOT grounded.
Fow-or (4)- If you DO have a nice hot spark, now get out your timing light, install all (good dry) plugs, hook up all the ignition, and use your timing light WITH THE STARTER to check initial timing. You want about 15 degrees or so at this point. If you get a nice rythmic spark at the light and the timing is OK, snug down the dist and DO NOT screw with it for now.
Fi -yive (5) Assuming you correctly installed the cam, THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL that it is going to move a tooth ON A NEW chain and or sprocket set.
seee--ix (6) Fuel. Has the car been sitting? How long? Are you sure "a friend" didn't help out with fuel contamination? Are you SURE?
If all the above is OK, you should be able to toss a little fuel down the carb, hit the starter and it WILL bang to life.
Other random comments:
I have no idea what you did, your skill, etc. How well did it run when it did run? What makes you think the timing magically changed? You DID use a new cam drive set, right?
Have you examined the cap and rotor for moisture, crap, dirt, debri? Damage? Tested the coil / plug wires? Something as simple as a bad coil wire can really really ruin your day.
In the last two years I've "test fired" three junk engines, two of which didn't even have a carb, using my engine hoist and my "emergency" ignition. From start to finish, it didn't take me more than 15 min -- 1/2 hour to get bangs and pops out of an engine. One didn't even have exhaust manifolds!!!
Inside here is an HEI module, hooked to a coil. Hook up ground, power, and the dist. connector, and the coil wire and it runs!!!
What you claim cannot happen. If you really do have
compression
spark (at the right time)
fuel (GOOD fuel)
It will RUN.
Numba Won (1)---pull the plugs and inspect them for fuel / oil fouling.
Teu (2) Stop screwing and guessing with timing. Set it ONCE and KNOW it will run and forget about it.
So Stick your finger in the no1 plug hole, and crank "bump" until you feel compression. Then pay attention to the timing marks and wrench the engine until the marks WHICH SHOULD BE ON THEIR WAY "UP" -- NOT NOT NOT to TDC but rather to where you want the intitial timing, IE about 15 BTC.
Set the distributor so that whatever plug tower has no1 wire in it is just being approached corner to corner by the rotor, and so that the reluctor is aligned with the center of the pickup coil.
Tha -REE (3) Now, since you have starting problems, METHODICALLY troubleshoot for spark. It is IMPORTANT to understand that testing for spark by cranking the engine by jumpering the starter relay IS NOT the same as using the KEY. This is because the coil resistor bypass circuit, (ign 2 mentioned above) is not active if you jumper the start relay. HOWEVER this can BE a useful exercise if you suspect that IGN2 has a PROBLEM.
MAKE CERTAIN the IGN system has POWER. Then use a grounded probe such as a clip lead and a screwdriver, held near the top of the COIL TOWER to check for spark. If you get a nice hot spark there, install the coil wire, and move your clip/ probe to a plug tower in the cap. Make sure to crank long enough that the rotor comes clear 'round' as the dist. only rotates ONCE for every TWO crank revolutions.
Go to the MSD page and download the destructions for the 6A. There is troubleshooting destructions in the install sheet.
If you did NOT get spark at the coil tower, find out WHY. DO you have power to the ignition?
The MSD should have a large red and black which go to battery and ground. The "small red" must have 12V to "energize" the box, and this is normally hooked to IGN1 / IGN2 when jumpered together. This is the old dark blue "ignition run" and the brown "bypass" circuit.
MAKE SURE the white wire is taped off safely and IS NOT grounded.
Fow-or (4)- If you DO have a nice hot spark, now get out your timing light, install all (good dry) plugs, hook up all the ignition, and use your timing light WITH THE STARTER to check initial timing. You want about 15 degrees or so at this point. If you get a nice rythmic spark at the light and the timing is OK, snug down the dist and DO NOT screw with it for now.
Fi -yive (5) Assuming you correctly installed the cam, THERE IS NO WAY IN HELL that it is going to move a tooth ON A NEW chain and or sprocket set.
seee--ix (6) Fuel. Has the car been sitting? How long? Are you sure "a friend" didn't help out with fuel contamination? Are you SURE?
If all the above is OK, you should be able to toss a little fuel down the carb, hit the starter and it WILL bang to life.
Other random comments:
I have no idea what you did, your skill, etc. How well did it run when it did run? What makes you think the timing magically changed? You DID use a new cam drive set, right?
Have you examined the cap and rotor for moisture, crap, dirt, debri? Damage? Tested the coil / plug wires? Something as simple as a bad coil wire can really really ruin your day.
In the last two years I've "test fired" three junk engines, two of which didn't even have a carb, using my engine hoist and my "emergency" ignition. From start to finish, it didn't take me more than 15 min -- 1/2 hour to get bangs and pops out of an engine. One didn't even have exhaust manifolds!!!
Inside here is an HEI module, hooked to a coil. Hook up ground, power, and the dist. connector, and the coil wire and it runs!!!
