No Compression

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67/6barracuda said:
Pulled the head was previously rebuilt in 85' parked in 99' ran for 14yrs sat for 14 more rebuild has .30 pistons and there's no telling what else was done but there is a stamping for the rebuild on the front of the head. Everything cam apart easy hopefully goes back the same. I pulled the exhaust/intake manifold as one. Can it be assemble back the same? What else should I be looking at while this top half of the motor is open? The timing mark on balancer is dead on TDC on cylinder 1. So the timing chain was done right which is good i was worried. I will pull the distributor later on and see if it is facing number 1.
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just pull the cap and check. and was there anything obvious about the head?
 
If you don't find anything very obviously wrong, I vote the bottom half needs to come down.
 
Zero in 5 cylinders? Not likely a head gasket blown in all 5. Almost has to be timing events off as in timing gear/chain. Off a bunch, maybe enough to have bent valves.
 
No I haven't looked at the head yet I pulled it and set it off to the side. The intake valves were definitely not sealing. I checked the timing and at TDC the balancer lines up perfect. I just check the rotor its close to number 1 spark plug. +/- 10 degrees. Probably do to the slack in original timing chain. But its workable. Now there is some light abrasion in a couple cylinders the other four look good. I think its from were the rings were stuck at some point. I cleaned the deck surface and if and when the head gets here I will bolt it on and hopefully make some noise. What about the manifolds should i try and install it as one unit? or unbolt everything?
 
One unit is supposedly the easiest way to go, for me though, I found the opposite to be true. Your experiences may vary.

Since it ha been sitting, might be time to rebuild the carb.
 
Just before you put it back together,..

A test I always do while a head is off,, is move the crank until you have some space in the cylinders above all the pistons,, pour an approx, equal amt of solvent in each cylinder,, usually an inch or a little more.. Check back occasionally,,

- what you're looking for, is any cyl that looses the fluid quickly,, on a good engine,, cyls will hold equal fluid for hours,, sometimes till the next day.. On an engine with bad rings,, the loss of fluid will indicate which cyls have poor rings, usually confirming what the sparks plugs are saying.. (not in your case)

What you don't want to see is one cylinder, or all those low compression cylinders drain qiuickly,, while the cyl with compression holds fluid for hours or overnite.. (my bets stuck valves)..
It's like a compression test,, looking for big differences between cyls..

The loss of fluid will be an INDICATOR of ring condition and seal..

Oil is ALWAYS changed before returning to service..

hope it helps..

Keep the manifolds together..
 
..............and you can do the same thing as above with the heads.
 
Ordinary "parts cleaning" solvent,, or Varsol,, paint thinner, terpentine,, all avail at a general hardware or auto parts store..

good luck.. and as 67Dart says,, turn the head upside down, and try to fill the combustion chambers,, do this over a pan or something, to catch the fluid..

and yes,, may help loosen rings...
 
Well my ebay purchase looks like it may have been worth it. Milled to what i have no idea but it has obviously less material compared to my other head. valve job, seals, and springs. But cant tell much else. I don't really know what I looking at, LOL! I am scared to bolt it to my beat down bottom end but cant really afford to rebuild the whole motor. So I am going to just bolt it up and see what happens. Eventually i will probably go the small block route but I have to get this running at least for a little while to work on everything else that needs fixing. So wish me luck.

P.S. what size and where do i get the manifold studs?...part# and all so i noticed that the old head gasket covered two off the water jackets the one in the middle and one on the end.
 

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I cleaned off the lifters and re-installed with assembly lube. I included a top view of the head. I don't have a caliper but do those springs look thicker to you guys I can't really tell either. they look a little thicker but they have some green stuff on them not sure what it is.
 

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I don't see where you have "found the problem?"

Did you try putting (hell even gasoline or water!!!) into the cylinder head chambers to see if the valves leak. On the ports that -on V8- aren't connected to the exhaust heat, fill the PORTS.

I WOULD NOT put that new head on until you are convinced that you have found the original cause.
 
I first did my compression test got nothing, then I hooked up air 100psi and it blew straight out the carb. Pulled the head turned upside down and poured water in the chamber and it drained straight out the intake valve. Whats weird is it is only the intake valves on all cylinders the exhaust are all good. My cylinders are not pleasing to the eye with some light scoring and abrasion. I poured seafoam and let it sit for 24hrs some drained a little faster then others. but they all held fluid. I then wiped everything out and then did the same thing with oil added about 4oz and let it sit.
 

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realistically if I order a over hall kit from flatlandersracing for 230.00 what would necessary machining of the block be around? mostly likely .040 over.?
 
67/6barracuda said:
realistically if I order a over hall kit from flatlandersracing for 230.00 what would necessary machining of the block be around? mostly likely .040 over.?
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looks like your already .030 by the piston... i would buy the .060 over pistons and just buy everything else. call total seal for their rings.
 
Well shes alive and running after 14yrs of sitting and running good. Not sure how with only 70-80lbs per cylinder. I am convinced there was something wrong with the compression tester I had. We will see how long she last. I just gotta do the brakes now before I can drive it.
 
67/6barracuda said:
Well shes alive and running after 14yrs of sitting and running good. Not sure how with only 70-80lbs per cylinder. I am convinced there was something wrong with the compression tester I had. We will see how long she last. I just gotta do the brakes now before I can drive it.
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Good job,, another one on the road .. cheers..

That compression may come up after a few miles..

Keep up the good work..
 
Did you try turning it over by hand yet? If you feel each cylinder strongly, I can guarantee your compression is good and your compression test method is the problem. In my 2.4L, it would hold the pressure for ~20 sec and you could hear it slowly hiss down. That was at ~100K mi. New cars seem to wear much less, I think because the engine controls are much better at avoiding running rich w/ raw gas washing oil off the cylinders. In my 64 slant, I must wait 15 sec at each cylinder for the pressure to leak off before tugging on the belts again (no crank bolt).
 
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