Won't Fire - Need Help!

67Dart273 said
First, "suspect the gauge." If this is an electric gauge, get a mechanical. No need for a dash mount gauge, you can buy a generic test gauge, or even use your compression tester with the proper adapters / fittings.

The big tricks that I'm aware of on SB pump pressure, other than "standard" issues like badly installed, damaged, wrong size bearings or journals, 'effed up pump bypass or filter problems

Issues with pan to pump interferance. Check carefully. I believe we had one member break a pump

Issues with ARP (and other ?) studs with pump fit. This may be the one I was thinking broke the pump

There's a drive in core plug in the vertical oil hole from the rear main going up to the galley area

There's a recessed plug FORWARD of an access plug in the rear of the engine. I believe you can see this by pulling the dist. The plug is down in the rear near the distributor gear facing to the rear. These are threaded plugs

I'm not too sure the front plugs are an issue. There's documented proof of guys having engines with no plugs, and at least one claimed the factory never put them in some engines

Wow! You're quick!! - Yeah, figured it was a new Autometer electric gauge and have never had problems in the past, but sound easy/cheap enough to check... Bearing clearances and cam oiling bearing holes alignment verified during assembly. Used stock main connecting bolts and new Meling pump, Milodon deep pan and extended pick-up, so didn't encounter fit issues during assembly... May change out the oil filter since it's easy...

The "Drive-in" core plug from the rear main doesn't sound familiar... Is there a way to check that without pulling the pan and main? Will there be any indicators if I use a drill and priming rod? Hate to even pull the distributor with all the timing problems I've been having, but sounds like it might be prudent to check the threaded plug by the oil pump drive shaft...

Additionally/Separately, I can hear a vibrating/buzzing noise coming from somewhere. But, with the engine @ 2.5Km it's hard to tell where it's coming from. It may be the torque converter hitting/rubbing on the inspection shield. Will pull and leave off the shield when I replace the starter.

Okay... Appreciate the check list. I like you're methodical approach!!

Louie70Dart said
"Initially, didn't have the 90 degree oil adapter tightened enough and blew out the gasket during priming and dumped about 2 quarts of oil on the garage floor..." The good thing is you caught it. When I had my 318 back together in 1980, I didn't notice the plug on the back of the block was missing. Had to pull engine and split tranny from it to put a plug in. Hey, I was a real rookie here. At least it didn't start.

Ouch! Yeah, having to pull the trans again is painful... I was going through the priming process and my drill picked up a little speed accompanied by a "Squirting" noise. But, I kept going watching the rockers for oil flow... My father-in-law happened to be visiting and told me I had a "Leak!" Boy, that was an understatement... Good luck with your 340 build...

dartguy340 said
Up to 1969 the timing marks were on the passenger side of the motor,
in 1970 they moved them to the driver side. That may be your problem
with the wrong balancer that you used.

I just read that you verified TDC was correct...disregard this post.

No worries... Definitely went down that same thought process..