Cheapest way to lock up a non sure grip?

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trebor75

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Hello! I've got my hands on a 742 diff with a 4.86 open ratio. This one will only ever be used on the track. I currently have a 741 3.55 sure grip unit that I put together myself. Now I live in Sweden and it cost quite a lot to buy the sure grip and the other parts to renovate and put that one together.

I have to stay on the cheap side with this new one though since money is an issue at the moment. Is it possible to weld it, should I go spool, what are the options? It currently have the large yoke, I'd like to change to the small one, any tips on where to get it?

Thanks in advance!
 
When I was a kid, we had things known variously as "weld - a - lock," "posi - weld," "track weld" and any other aborted buzzword you could find.

Of course this usually followed a little "clanking and banging" from the original spiders, LOL
 
Thanks guys. I'll look into finding a spool here in Sweden. Still curious on how you weld these things though, any one with experience?
 
Weld spider gears together, just clean all oil to get good welds and because fire. Good weld willhold up fine
 
When I was a kid, we had things known variously as "weld - a - lock," "posi - weld," "track weld" and any other aborted buzzword you could find.

Of course this usually followed a little "clanking and banging" from the original spiders, LOL

Lincoln locker
 
Yup. The buzz box is the cheapest way, hands down. Just do it so you can still remove the center section and you'll be fine. Don't be conservative with the welds and it'll hold up. I would weld the spider gears TO the side gears and the carrier everywhere I could get to them and weld the side gears TO the carrier everywhere I could get to them. The more welds, the stronger it is. As long as you can still get the axles out, you can get the center section out. You should disassemble the whole thing, wash it completely off as mentioned, reassemble it and weld away. People say "it will break eventually" but if you weld it like I described, the axles will break before anything. No it ain't the rightest thing to do, but it's the cheapest and that's what you asked. lol
 
Yup. The buzz box is the cheapest way, hands down. Just do it so you can still remove the center section and you'll be fine. Don't be conservative with the welds and it'll hold up. I would weld the spider gears TO the side gears and the carrier everywhere I could get to them and weld the side gears TO the carrier everywhere I could get to them. The more welds, the stronger it is. As long as you can still get the axles out, you can get the center section out. You should disassemble the whole thing, wash it completely off as mentioned, reassemble it and weld away. People say "it will break eventually" but if you weld it like I described, the axles will break before anything. No it ain't the rightest thing to do, but it's the cheapest and that's what you asked. lol

yep what he said. clean then weld for track use it will be fine.
 
Yup. The buzz box is the cheapest way, hands down. Just do it so you can still remove the center section and you'll be fine. Don't be conservative with the welds and it'll hold up. I would weld the spider gears TO the side gears and the carrier everywhere I could get to them and weld the side gears TO the carrier everywhere I could get to them. The more welds, the stronger it is. As long as you can still get the axles out, you can get the center section out. You should disassemble the whole thing, wash it completely off as mentioned, reassemble it and weld away. People say "it will break eventually" but if you weld it like I described, the axles will break before anything. No it ain't the rightest thing to do, but it's the cheapest and that's what you asked. lol
X2 we use to call it a poor mans spool................but be carefull going around sharp turns.................Artie:coffee2::lurk:
 
When I was a kid, we had things known variously as "weld - a - lock," "posi - weld," "track weld" and any other aborted buzzword you could find.

Of course this usually followed a little "clanking and banging" from the original spiders, LOL

LOL...aaahhh memories. Good times...good times.

Pat
 
yo that a lmfao for sure.

years back I welded the spiders in my dana 60 that was my 4000lbs 66 Plymouth sat. and it never did break. it had a 60 over roller cam 440, 3 stages of nos, 4.89 gears and 31x12 slicks.
 
I suggest if welding use a 70 - 18 ac rod on either ac or dc is fine this is hardened steel so use enough heat to get a good mix between the three pieces meaning the 2 welded pieces and the rod .
 
Thanks for all the input! I think I will try and weld it. I did a google search and found this picture.
 

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Make sure you clean out any weld spatter before re installing the pumpkin, the bearings and gears will live longer.
 
I caint believe we're actually advising somebody to do this. lol
 
I caint believe we're actually advising somebody to do this. lol

why not ....cheap and easy and gets the job done ....even i have done this before........like said above ....be careful around corners and going in reverse is going to be tricky ......but its well worth it to be able to leave TWO black marks instead of one and especially if you dont have cash for a sure grip unit :D:D
 
I caint believe we're actually advising somebody to do this. lol

Dont worry to much. This will not be used on the street at all. I have a perfectly set up 3.55 with a sure grip that I renovated and put together myself. However, that cost a lot of money because these things is not something you can go to your local store and pick up. Everything has to be ordered and shipped and pay customs etc. I just cant afford spending that money on this 4.86 unit. But at the same time Im super curios on how the Duster will perform with 4.86 out back!
 
Used this method in my demolition cars for years . No breaky . But turning sharp so sucks with it . Especially when the car isn't running . Still got something like a 5:14 in the garage somewhere .
 
My brother welded the rear diff in his Pro Street 4X4 pulling truck. The truck generates almost 1,000 horsepower, and the rear has never broken. It works, just doesn't make turns as well.
 
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