Someone school me on converter/pump relationship please!

"Bogging the engine down" is not a function of the covnertor. It's the function of the tuneup. Generally the timing is not as far advanced as it needs to be, and/or the carb is lean at idle (whicch may require air bleed changes). For what you have - you shouldnt have a 10". That should be an 8" IMO. It will feel loose on the street but who really cares. If you wanted a cruiser you need to rethink the combo. that's a really nice strip/streeet combo and needs to be assembled as such. At least all in my opinion.
personally - I'd call Lenny at Ultimate Convertor Concepts.

Well I agree, but maybe I didn't say that right. I just didn't like the car slamming into gear and I didn't like it changing from 1100-1200 at idle down to 700-800. It never died, ran good, I just didn't like the slow idle in gear. I feel the carb was set up good at idle. It would always idle well and start quickly. But maybe I'm wrong on that. It's just that I would always want to kick it up in neutral at lights. It's pretty hard on an engine setup like that to idle at low rpm. The other thing is that the higher stall "should" help with launches at the track over the one I have. Chris at Continental seemed to think that a 9" with something 3500 or above would be what I need. Previous owner had a 3800 in another car and he claimed it was perfect because the motor idle rpm didn't change in gear from neutral. He believes that's what this car needs. But I'm still green behind the ears and learning so I'm trying to take it all in. Ultimately, I have to put a lot of trust in my engine builder. He held the stock eliminator record for several years until somewhat recently so that should to say something about the guy and his knowledge of getting the right setup. I tell him what I want to do with the car, and he tells me what to do, this is what cam you're going to get, this is the CR you'll need, etc etc. Some things I just like to leave in the hands of someone much more experienced in the subject.