Breathing new life into the 318 in the Scamp!

Is the engine still in the car?

A rotating assembly came loose, check the run out conecentricity (sp?) on the rod, I bet the cap is streached and the big end is not round. or not round to begin with.
Did you have the big end re-sized when the machine work was done?

Please check this before putting it back together.

Definitely.

I'm going to. You can see the bright/ wipe pattern on the rod bearing. I'm going to plastigage it across that entire area, within 15° of each one to make sure that the potential low spot on the journal and potential low spots on the rod and cap are correct, with the replacement bearing.

I'm going to remove the old bearing and mic the rod/cap torqued against the angle just past TDC where I saw the bright mark on the rod side bearing, against the cap, when it's down near BDC, like you usually do, only at the slight crank angle past BDC so the cap and journal's potential out of round spots are on each other.

If it specs out tighter in any other direction, I'll check it with another cap and see if it changes. If it does, I'll pull the rod out and have it resized with another cap and balance the assembly to match the old one.

Using a clicker-type torque wrench is kind of a crapshoot unless it's really good quality, they tend to have a lot more variation in readings and internal spring pressures and such. Whenever I use my clicker wrench I push it just a little past the click to be sure as they do often read higher than they are.

Beam torque wrenches FTW, might take a little longer but it's by far the most accurate unless you spend hundreds on a fancy digital quality calibrated one.

Even the high end micro-torque/ click wrenches and digital wrenches that you get from tool trucks are due for tuning every now and then. Tool truck drivers have a micro-torque calibrator that they use to remove the spring and check it.

I vote to keep it simple. Just got a new 1/2" for the rest of the engine, to check it all out, too.