Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

Just got out from under the car. I took one of the 1/8" X 3 curved plates and put it in place with the "fake" rod end under the car (1st pic). You have to know what you're looking for when you try and see the metal plate in the first pic. If you look at some of my previous posts you can see the metal plates pretty easy.
Once I could see how they were oriented I removed them and cut and bent the plate, I also made the shank of the "fake" rod end narrower so I could put it in the small hole I made in the plate at the location it needs to be under the car. I reinstalled the two pieces and they seem to fit fairly well considering they don't belong there (second pic).
After I get the metal plate bent and shaped exactly like I want it I'll weld gussets and braces to it to make it rigid. Once the metal plate is installed and welded to the upper trans brace (cross member, see previous pics) it should be very rigid. But to make sure it doesn't move when I'm shifting gears I also plan to attach a long piece of 1/8" X 1" flat stock to one of the Driver's side lower trans cross member bolts. I'll bend and shape it so that it lays against the tunnel wall that way it won't interfere with anything. This will give the rod end "lateral" support to prevent flexing. There will be no vertical load on the rod end...only horizontal load. I guess I could easily brace the 1/8" metal plate to the body but I'm trying to cut on the body as little as possible. This car is so nice and original I hate to cut it up too much. In fact, if there was any way to get the 200R4 in there without cutting at all I would find a way. But it ain't gonna happen without a little surgery!!

PS- It's really amazing how easily I can put those 1/8" metal plates between the body and the upper support. It's pure luck that Mopar only spot welded the upper support at the top of the tunnel and on the lower horizontal part of the trans support/torsion bar brace. Leaving a nice gap for the 1/8" plate!!

Treblig