The plugs were Champion RC9YC set at .035. The Edelbrock instructions called for a RC12YC but with those, I had a problem with dieseling/run on. The colder plugs stopped that.
I am using a Mopar Performance electronic distributor with the stiffest springs included in the tuning kit. It was set to 16 degrees initial with 14 degrees in the curve for a total of 30 degrees. The curve began at about 200 rpms off of a 900 rpm idle and was fully advanced by 2300 rpms (approx). I have used a Wells Ecu, an orange ECU and currently have a chrome ECU. Performance seemed similar with those factory based boxes. I also ran a Rev-n-nator but the engine knocked even worse. I retarded the timing as-per their suggestion, (2-6 degrees) but that left my initial timing so far back, it felt soggy out of the hole. The engine idled best at around 19-20 degrees of initial.
In my other long winded threads, I mentioned that I was using a wideband EUGO guage to tune after the cam was broken in. I was thinking that I may have been running too lean, possibly making it knock as a result. I up-jetted, down-jetted, changed power valves, set it to best idle vacuum....I was able to get the numbers to mid 14s at idle in Park, mid 14s at idle in gear and as low as 11.0 at WOT. I understand that 12.5 to 13.0 is the goal for the A/F readings at WOT. Even when I had it jetted to get those numbers, I still heard the knock.
By the way, wouldn't piston slap make more noise when the engine is cold? Mine sounds pretty quiet cold, warm or at operating temperature.
**** The EUGO guage setup uses an oxygen sensor that I plumbed into the RH header collector. I never tried moving it to the LH header to see if the left bank gave different readings.