Help with cam selection

The combo sounds feasable. I like the cam they recomended and comp cams are a great company. All of your plans sound good.

The 110 centerline will help your idle quality and also broaden the power band which is great for the street. Don't forget your in the big block cubic inches now.

I run a GVOD. Love it 14 years stong.

I'd rec a modern intake, not a tunnel ram unless you want that look.

I don't know how manageable a 2x4 is going to be on the street and keep from killing ET, compared to a Dominator or the like single four, double hitter.

In theory.. 8 small holes flowing 1000cfm total should create more velocity than 4 huge holes fowing the same. Also the port distribution should be improved depending on the intake design. (at least at WOT)

however, KISS, a single 4 holley HP carb works and it is tough to beat.

Look into Dynamic for a converter. :D They are built differently and help cure cruising slip on a street car.

I run a 3500. You wou'd never know it was anything other than stock if you drove the car. I cruise at 2500 RPM.


On the suggestion of speaking to Dwayne at porters I will probably go to a solid flat tappet cam instead of a roller cam.

Why?

You won't need much of a cam to reach deep 11s in that combo.

MPP 242/528/112 cam in a 440 will put an A body mid 11's.

I think Comp's recommendation is a little out there...especially with a stock head. With that said, I think the "lightly ported J heads" are going to be your bottle neck with this combo. , and could potentially keep you from your goal of high to mid 11's on a street car....not saying it is impossible, just not the best choice for a stroker.

For what its worth, my 410 stroker is using a smaller off the shelf "street roller" from Comp, the XE286R (248/254 duration). This cam along with some ported Edelbrocks and a 750dp propels my Barracuda into the mid 10's....and I can (and do) drive it all over town.

My point to this is, I don't think you need a monster camshaft to achieve your goal, but I do think you should look into some different heads (JMO). A more street-able cam will be easier on the valve train parts, and less maintenance...and the larger cubes of your stroker will be able to breath with better flowing heads. Going fast is all about getting a good COMBINATION of parts that work well together, and tuning them for optimal performance.

Good advise all the way around flyfish but if he runs those heads that biger cam will help to crutch that bottle neck.