*The block was bored and honed. Torque plate? I'll have to check on that. I think the machinist said the machine is a Sunnen CK10?
*I incorrectly ran the engine for awhile with the intake manifold bolts too loose. Somehow I had my torque numbers wrong and I had them in at 15 lbs insteads of 35. I used to occasionally see oil in the valley pan under the middle of the manifold. I replaced the valley pan and didn't see any more oil come back. This was one of many areas I thought may be contributing to the knocking. It does look to be responsible for the carbon buildup, at least in my opinion.
*This was my first time degreeing the cam. I used the intake centerline method written in the instructions included with the degree kit. I never checked the exhaust lobes.
*I was pretty diligent about checking compression #s after every change I made. Maybe my guage is AFU. I will certainly retest the engine after it is up and running again. I can compare the new readings against what I recorded before, THEN recheck the engine with a higher quality guage.
*My Dynamic compression readings were calculated from this site:
https://www.uempistons.com/index.ph...=comp2&zenid=5886b5a1e26a6addce30f95974e64ff7
I listed the stroke as 4.15, the CR at 10.73 and the rod length at 6.76. For the intake closing, I took the 56.5 degrees from the cam card and added 15 for a 71.5 total. This gave me a Dynamic of 8.09. I'm open to look at other formulas though....
*In 2005 I had it tuned at a shop with a dyno. It was there where the man recurved the distributor, added bigger jets and advised me to get a more modern cam. I've followed the advice of some very qualified people and still have run into trouble.
