FABO racers, could use your help to win a bet.

Good info,every where. Subscribed. FWIW,Cracked back,usually dead on ,N20 tuning. The windows switch,should be interesting.

Yeah he's really helped me out in the past, especially when I was getting the car ready for Drag Week last year.

Window switches are for the scared!! :D
WOT switch is where it's at, I don't even like the push button setups some have unless it's just to purge through the motor :glasses7:

Well, I am a bit nervous about it. I have no dea how hard a 100-150 shot will hit out of the hole and I don't run slicks. Granted my car seems to work well with radials but I'm upgrading to the M/T ET street radials for some extra grip. I will be using a wot switch for sure though. I've also been looking at timers to see if that can get the job done.

120-122 will get you into the 10's with a decent 60'. Shoot for a low 6.90 and 98-99 mph and you're in the money! IIRC, a 6.94 and 98mph is about equivalent to an 11.00-120

As long as the valvetrain is stable, that engine should turn 6500 without much issue. I've turned a hyd roller engine with stock mopar lifters 7k+ with a cam just slightly larger than yours.

At this point I'm thinking my 60' should be better than 1.55 and I was also thinking 6.90 would be a good number to shoot for. Whether or not 100 shot will do I don't know. As for the revving, a Dakota guy I race with is telling me the same thing about it being no issue to rev as high as I'm looking as long as the valvetrain in stable. Problem is that I've never revved it that high and I wonder if my MP .525" springs are up to the task. They probably are but I overthink everything. Plus I didn't know if revving an engine way past its powerband would hurt it somehow.








Still researching parts, will keep yoy guys up to date on what's going on. Lots to do including a rollbar and other safety stuff, not to mention fixing the rear subframe I broke my last time out.