Need help perfecting the budget build hemi swap

Wrong again.
I replace both sides blocks, and adjusters for the T bars. The bolts looked okay, but inside the blocks the threads seemed a bit flat. The passenger side bar needed reclocking. The QA1 style K frame just isn't aligned exactly spot on, so the drivers side T bar retainer snapped right in, because the T bar sits a bit deeper in the crossmember socket. When it came to the passenger side, I couldn't even get it deep enough to snap it in. I had to loosen the four bolts, hook a strap to the k member, and pull it with a truck just ever so carefully. I snapped the retainer in but, one side is still a hair deeper than the other. I don't like that. The k member is supposed to be torqued to 200 ft lbs., My torque wrench goes to 120 lbs., and even if I had a correct wrench, the rear bolts sit in such a position, that I need a socket extension to tighten them. The heads on the bolts are so shallow that the extension allows the socket to get a little side motion, so it keeps popping off. So I'm going to have to find a better way in there.
That aside, I know the k frame needs alignment, that's a given,and I've come up with a few ideas on how to do just that.
The street Lynx is the next issue. Bill Reilly says, Whether the car leans, or not ( due to the T bar clocking issue. ) The lower control arms on the four link shouldn't change position from center. When my car was leaning really bad on the passenger front, the drivers rear control arm would rub the tire. After reclocking everything, and leveling the front out a bit, it stopped doing that. I know I was told to, just to snug things up, so the alignment guy wouldn't have to loosen everything again. But something must be plain loose.
So I blew through installing a suspension, engine , trans, and other stuff, and I was thrilled with the time I was making, Especially being alone, doing most everything, but now I'm working backward. that's my fault.