Breathing new life into the 318 in the Scamp!
Pulled the caps, All of the bearings have a very slight brighter area with the one that came loose, showing the brightest.
Plasti-gaged fine. None of the journals are damaged.
Just for fun, I took them apart with the beam wrench. Every one of them came loose at 29-31lbs.
So, I think all of these started to come loose, according to the bearings and the torque on the cap nuts.
They all went back together fine @ 45lbs with the 77s.
Moral of the story:
Throw your click wrench in the @#*&^% trash or just use it for suspension.
The pan gasket set is wrong. Need another one. Test fitted the pan with no gasket. Still needs some more metal work on the outer corner. Once it gets finished and fit, I need a warm day to give it another paint job.
Gonna use Rustoleum gloss enamel primary colors with black and white to match Chrysler blue. I used the gloss black out of the can, thinned with lacquer thinner, out of a gun, on the air cleaner and it stayed significantly higher gloss than the rest of the engine, from the spray can. I'm convinced that the Dupli-Color stuff just goes on too thin. It doesn't have much solids to build ennough mil thickness to hold gloss. Looks great, until the engine warms up and all of the solvents go away.
The can says not to use lacquer thinner. It takes about 2 minutes, stirring with a stick for the paint to start sticking to the sides of the cup, instead of washing away with just the thinner. They say to use acetone up to 15%. I used 25% lacquer thinner. 15% sprayed like undercoat and laid out like a pancake on a test card.
The reason I used lacquer thinner is because it dries slow. The slower you can get an ambient temp dry paint to cure, the higher gloss it will keep. Hit it once with a tac coat, like all enamels should. Let it sit up 30 minutes. Came back in and did a full 2nd coat. Laid out like glass and took 2 days to dry completely.
Crossing my fingers for anything above freezing. 2nd bathroom may become a 2nd paint cure room. Hope not.
Pulled the caps, All of the bearings have a very slight brighter area with the one that came loose, showing the brightest.
Plasti-gaged fine. None of the journals are damaged.
Just for fun, I took them apart with the beam wrench. Every one of them came loose at 29-31lbs.
So, I think all of these started to come loose, according to the bearings and the torque on the cap nuts.
They all went back together fine @ 45lbs with the 77s.
Moral of the story:
Throw your click wrench in the @#*&^% trash or just use it for suspension.
The pan gasket set is wrong. Need another one. Test fitted the pan with no gasket. Still needs some more metal work on the outer corner. Once it gets finished and fit, I need a warm day to give it another paint job.
Gonna use Rustoleum gloss enamel primary colors with black and white to match Chrysler blue. I used the gloss black out of the can, thinned with lacquer thinner, out of a gun, on the air cleaner and it stayed significantly higher gloss than the rest of the engine, from the spray can. I'm convinced that the Dupli-Color stuff just goes on too thin. It doesn't have much solids to build ennough mil thickness to hold gloss. Looks great, until the engine warms up and all of the solvents go away.
The can says not to use lacquer thinner. It takes about 2 minutes, stirring with a stick for the paint to start sticking to the sides of the cup, instead of washing away with just the thinner. They say to use acetone up to 15%. I used 25% lacquer thinner. 15% sprayed like undercoat and laid out like a pancake on a test card.
The reason I used lacquer thinner is because it dries slow. The slower you can get an ambient temp dry paint to cure, the higher gloss it will keep. Hit it once with a tac coat, like all enamels should. Let it sit up 30 minutes. Came back in and did a full 2nd coat. Laid out like glass and took 2 days to dry completely.
Crossing my fingers for anything above freezing. 2nd bathroom may become a 2nd paint cure room. Hope not.