Camshaft Removal

That much force will scrape off a whole lot of lube in 3 to 3.5 revolutions. At this point your engine will need to fire immediately (likely 1 crank or less) on first start up to avoid wiping a lobe.
YMMV with this comment...not trying to start a war or anything, but if it were true and verifiable, my 306 wouldn't have lived for 10 years with the 270H Magnum cam I ran in it. I spun it over at least a dozen times with the longblock together to set the valves properly (had some issues getting the rockers set correctly), so by that rationale, it would've been devoid of sufficient amounts of lube for at least 8.5 turns. If that weren't enough, the car didn't fire immediately...had the dizzy in 180* out...then had to deal with carb issues. Eventually it fired off and ran, but not until after an hour or more of turning it over then rechecking timing etc. All that being said, it was broken in as specified by COMP cams instructions, and had zero issues during the service life of that engine. I parted out the shortblock to different friends...and that cam still lives in another engine with a new set of lifters. And that wasn't the only time I've been in such a situation so I severely doubt my case was an isolated one. Just because you may not have the thick slathering of break-in lube during starting doesn't mean it'll wipe a lobe within
likely 1 crank or less
, flat tappet cams are made of phosphate coated iron cores, not cotton candy.

Now, I do happen to agree that cam is a bit much for stock valvetrain for the aforementioned reasons...but Bad Sport is correct-that cam would still sell as a used item...it looks like a good grind for a street going BB. If I wanted to go hydraulic, I'd buy it for my 383, but I already found an Ultradyne 272 solid flat tappet cam...and guess what-it's used. :)

JMO...