Does this look correct

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169dart4y said:
This was my first guess since you changed to disks in the front. Could be the problem. :happy1:
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I wouldn't think that this would cause a spongy pedal. Others have reported this swap without one, resulting in the rear brakes just coming on strong.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
You are correct about the bar but he is talking about the end of the spring that is on the strut bar.
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Bingo, I see it now Bill. Sometimes my head no work sooo good.

plumkrazee70 said:
Yes I did do 1 side at a time. I tried to use the other side as reference and the anti rattle print was clearly on wrong. I will fix this weekend.
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As many times as I have done brakes, I ALWAYS do what you did and leave the opposite wheel intact for reference...or be sure and take pics! LOL
Good luck, let us know yer findings
 
OK.

So I corrected the shoe anchor position on both sides and adjusted the rear brakes until I felt some resistance when turning the wheel. Backed off the adjuster a few clicks and stepped on the brakes to re center the shoes.

I did this on both sides. Although I didn't start it up and test the brakes because its pretty cold, the pedal still seems to have too much travel, but I don't have much to compare to, since the brakes were shot when I got the car.

The master is a reman 1 1/32" bore.
 
You wouldn't happen to know where to find those brake shoe anchors, guides, retainers, plate. I have 9" brakes all around and looking for three of them. For the spongy feel I would check your brake lines (hoses) in the front. Sometimes they expand when you put the pressure on them if they are worn.
 
Update:

I did a few tests and am still not getting a firm pedal.

Here are the tests and results:

With the master cylinder bolted to the car I plugged both front and rear ports with the plugs that came with the master = Nice firm Pedal = Master is good.

Left the rear pluged (Front brakes) and the front plumbed (rear brakes) and I got a better pedal.

Plugged the front (Rear brakes) and the rear plumbed (Front brakes) and I got the about the same result as above.

But with both lines plumbed, the pedal is spongy and has a lot of travel. I'm not sure what else to do.

I bench bled the master, and gravity bled the brakes for 1 1/2 hours. (Yes I did not let the master go dry.) It only emptied about half.

I am seriously at my wits end with these brakes. :banghead: I don't know what else to do.

Any ideas???
 
It has been a while since I read this thread and this may have already been asked, I don't remember.

Are you sure the master cylinder is the correct bore?
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
It has been a while since I read this thread and this may have already been asked, I don't remember.

Are you sure the master cylinder is the correct bore?
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Well I can't say for sure. It's for a 73 Dart with Disc/Drum A-1 Cardone 10-1627 1/32" bore. That is the master that was on the parts list from Scarebird. I know the 15/16 is most talked about though.
 
I still wonder about the proportioning valve. If this was a drum brake car it didn't have a proportioning valve. The block would a distribution block if it hasn't been changed.
 
Oklacarcollecto said:
I still wonder about the proportioning valve. If this was a drum brake car it didn't have a proportioning valve. The block would a distribution block if it hasn't been changed.
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Still has stock dist block. I have not swapped for a disc prop valve. Most just add a an adj. prop valve and leave the dist block. Do you think this has to do with the lack of a firm pedal?
 
plumkrazee70 said:
Still has stock dist block. I have not swapped for a disc prop valve. Most just add a an adj. prop valve and leave the dist block. Do you think this has to do with the lack of a firm pedal?
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I know a bad proportioning valve can cause the problem so logically it could be the problem here. Honestly, I don't know if that is the answer but you have about eliminated everything else.
 
I have disc prop valve off a 76 duster. Not sure if its in good order though. I guess I will try swapping it in and re bleeding the brakes.
 
inertia said:
A quick, easy check for air,, after you're sure the rear brakes are adjusted properly,, is ,.. with m/c cap on,, have friend pump 2 or 3 times and hold down,,, remove the cap,, have the pedal released as you watch the fluid levels,... any "geyser" ( fluid spouting well above the surface) is compressed air, "springing" fluid back,, front or rear,, and that system needs more bleeding..

-with the exception that,- if the rear brakes are outta adjustment,, the return springs can cause a fluid return from the rears..

setting the emergency can help if you can't adjust the rears..

brake fluid is excellent paint remover,, so don't splash any on your paint.. immed rinse with water if you do..

hope it helps... grant
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You NEED to do this test,, to tell you where the air is.. ! ! !

Once you know which system (fr or Rear) ,, is causing the problem,, (AIR)
you can narrow it down..

If it's the rear system,, it's likely air, but could be the shoes flexing on extremely oversized drums..

But at least help us narrow it down...
 
inertia said:
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You NEED to do this test,, to tell you where the air is.. ! ! !

Once you know which system (fr or Rear) ,, is causing the problem,, (AIR)
you can narrow it down..

If it's the rear system,, it's likely air, but could be the shoes flexing on extremely oversized drums..

But at least help us narrow it down...
Click to expand...

Sorry I did not update on this. I have done this test and from what I can tell no geyser in either port. Here is some other tests I have done:

I blocked the master ports, with the two plastic plugs that come with the master. This resulted in a firm pedal, which told me the master is good.

I left one of the plugs in and hooked one line in and got a firm pedal.

Did the opposite for the other line and also got a firm pedal, but when both lines are plumbed in, I get the spongy pedal with a decent amount of travel.

I am going to try and find some time this week to adjust the rear shoes up tight (as if the parking brake were set) and see if that changes anything.
 
alright saw another problem with the way the rear brakes are set up ,the adjuster wheels are wrong or in backward. when the cable pulls up on the arm and pushes the wheel around the adjuster assemble gets longer to pick up shoe wear. the wheel should be mounted on the same side as the cable so it wont walk off the leaver when it gets longer (look at the pics)#18 hope this helps
 
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