904 internals

The right way? Ask the many who have put the 5 thins in the front drum of a 904 or 5 thinner frictions in a 727, the transmissions are holding up fine in race applications. I ran 5 thin frictions in my front drum this past season, 11.20's off the brake at 3500lbs, 10.50 on a 150 hit...STOCK THIN clutches and steels, clutches are all in fantastic shape! Trans was out numerous times throughout the season, and all was beauty inside....and on the nitrous, thats well over 600hp! I have over 60 passes on the track with this setup, and even more on the street- mine is driven on the street too...a TON...beaten on....except that street miles aren't going to show **** all on the clutches, WOT passes will be the true test as to their holding capabilities, not cruising along on roadtrips...so with your logic, overbuild and buy race parts for a cruiser?

There are a lot of ways to do things...some people like to spend money to think they did things the "right" way, others know what works and only spend what they need to do it...I researched the hell outta this and picked the brains of various builders before deciding how to build it. Never said your parts are no good, just not needed...I won't be the only one to echo these opinions, but what do I know.

While you can put more frictions and steels, using the thinner parts, it has been said that they don't remove the heat properly.
Had a smart builder show me one time if I'd ever seen a 700r4 with the thin 3-4 steels and frictions that had gotten too hot. Burnt excesively to be kind. He would only use the factory thickness friction and steels as he said his experience with the thinner plates had never been good.
His opinion.

For a perfromance transmission, he'd often use Raybestos "Waffle" plates.