Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?

Treblig said
Here are the pics of the converter with crank adapter and flex plate. The crank adapter is machined to accept the 2004R converter pilot, it fits snug. In the pics you can see the spacers between the flex plate and the converter bosses. When I assemble these three parts off the engine I can simulate the actual amount of engagement between the converter pilot and the crank adapter. Once assembled with the TCI spacers the converter pilot goes into the crank adapter pilot hole about 3/16". That should be plenty of engagement to ensure proper alignment of the parts. If I needed more engagement of the converter pilot I could make a 1/16" spacer to put between the crank adapter and the flex plate effectively moving the crank adapter towards the rear and making it engage the converter boss more without affecting any of the other components.

In the last pic you can see the slots in the converter nose. These holes engage the pump inside the tranny, if you pull the converter too far forward when bolting to the flex plate you can accidently disengage the slots from the pump. I believe the Mopar converter is very similar. If there is no clearance at all before you pull the converter forward then you run the risk of the flex plate flexing toward the rear and forcing the nose of the converter into the pump in a way that could damage components. At least that's what everything I've read tells me. Again, I'm not an expert but I do have a few books on the 700R4.

Treblig

From looking at the photos (nice job by the way), it looks like it's all going to fit, and you're right, the converter slots must engage the pump gear tangs. I don't know how good the photos are, but don't use that converter. The hub looks like it's worn excessively and needs to be replaced.. I believe somewhere in this thread you're going to get another converter. The thing to remember is the converter hub must have a mirror finish to it, just like a crank journal, or it will be leak city. As I mentioned before, use a teflon coated bushing for the pump. I remember reading something when that bushing was first introduced that it had to do with bushings siezing on the converter hub because of electrical current passing through from the transmission. I think that the article stated GM did this because of the amount of electronic components that transmissions were starting to get in them. The added benefit of course was it was just plain a better bushing from a lube point.