Single stage or bc/cc for a vintage look?

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my5thmopar

my5thmopar

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I'm getting ready to decide on paint for my 64 D100. This is going to be a nice driver and local car show goer. I'm going to paint it back to the original Arctic blue. That is a very light blue color. I have to do the interior, engine bay and underside. I'm doing a stock build.... so I want the truck to look original. I would consider bc/cc if I get get the look. I've used high solids ss urethane with good results. I'm talking about good quality.... not the cheapest stuff out there. The SS stuff is durable and can be a bugger to shoot/fix but, trucks have a lot of panels.

Can the vintage look be obtained with bc/cc or is the depth look going to still be there? Not talking about satin clears.

Should I just shoot SS high solids?
 
If you are that concerned with original then use acrylic enamel. Why not take advantage of todays urethanes with their great shine and durability? If it were a concours restoration on a really valuable car I understand, but most of us just have run of the mill cars done our own way.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
If you are that concerned with original then use acrylic enamel. Why not take advantage of todays urethanes with their great shine and durability? If it were a concours restoration on a really valuable car I understand, but most of us just have run of the mill cars done our own way.
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That's the problem. These cars (trucks) didn't shine like a modern B/C when new.

You want a factory appearance, go single stage and toss in some runs.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
That's the problem. These cars (trucks) didn't shine like a modern B/C when new.

You want a factory appearance, go single stage and toss in some runs.
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I dont think I'll have to try too hard to get the runs. Like I said in the orginal post this is going to be a driver. Maybe its just me but, if you put two cars side by side with SS and bc/cc the SS justs looks more stock. That make sence? I guess it comes down to "its your car do what you want." So I guess my question Can the vintage look be obtained with bc/cc or is the depth look going to still be there? The answer is no.
 
Well ya can always do what the hacks at McCune Chrysler Plymouth did to my RR and hose the thing down with synthetic enamel...........
 
Id use single stage then if you decide that you want more shine or wet sand & buff it then you can clear over it. You cant wet sand & buff single stage if its a metallic, unless you clear it.
 
cawley said:
id use single stage then if you decide that you want more shine or wet sand & buff it then you can clear over it. You cant wet sand & buff single stage if its a metallic, unless you clear it.
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my5thmopar said:
I dont think I'll have to try too hard to get the runs. Like I said in the orginal post this is going to be a driver. Maybe its just me but, if you put two cars side by side with SS and bc/cc the SS justs looks more stock. That make sence? I guess it comes down to "its your car do what you want." So I guess my question Can the vintage look be obtained with bc/cc or is the depth look going to still be there? The answer is no.
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Yup, I`ve heard guys like Roger Gibson use single stage as the BC/CC looks a lot more shiny and "wet" than a factory paint job. I`ve used single stage urethanes with very good results and they will hold up better than the old enamels.
 
Single stage. No need for bc/cc unless you are going metallic. The '69 Coronet R/T I painted a few weeks ago was done in single stage. Even then, you can still use single stage - I shot the fenders, grille shell and flames on my '36 with Nason factory pack single stage
 

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challengergary said:
Single stage. No need for bc/cc unless you are going metallic. The '69 Coronet R/T I painted a few weeks ago was done in single stage. Even then, you can still use single stage - I shot the fenders, grille shell and flames on my '36 with Nason factory pack single stage
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Gary...Did you like the Nason and how did it lay down? I've used Nason for a few parts but, not an entire car. I've used the AkzoNobel/Sikkens U-tech 3.8 high solids and had very good luck with it. Its some tough stuff and the color is
very consistent. Just don't let it cure for too long if you have to fix something, I had to sand a few runs and it was a bear getting them out. Buffs real nice.
 
F clear coat. If I get a paint job in the future, Ill pay extra for single stage. Every car I owned in the past 10 years EXCEPT my '65 has had clearcoat and all have checked no matter how well I wax and wash them. ITs the F'n water based crap they use out here in CA or is it all bad? Hell, my 96 black Breeze looks like a 2 day old glazed donut, Im just waiting for mother nature to remove ALL the clear and at this rate, Id give it only about 3 more months. Its flat black under all that ****......
 
yea your right, the factory paint on 80s & 90s did suck. The companies were testing a new paint, & it was water base. The paint that you get now is a lot better, weather on a new car or on a repaint. Now the new water base paint is a lot better. I have a friend who is a teacher & he goes to a lot of classes on it & he says its pretty good
 
my5thmopar said:
Gary...Did you like the Nason and how did it lay down? I've used Nason for a few parts but, not an entire car. I've used the AkzoNobel/Sikkens U-tech 3.8 high solids and had very good luck with it. Its some tough stuff and the color is
very consistent. Just don't let it cure for too long if you have to fix something, I had to sand a few runs and it was a bear getting them out. Buffs real nice.
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I've used Nason for years and like it. AkzoNoble's Wanda line is nice too..
 
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