Tuff to Start

Sorry, but jumpering the ballast does not "do" anything, read onwards..........

The way to check this is to use a jumper from the coil + terminal to a battery source like the starter relay "big stud." This bypasses all wiring and gives you a good hot circuit to the coil.

Even better is to actually CHECK it with a multimeter. Clip a multimeter to the coil + terminal and ground. Crank the car using the key The reading should be "same as battery" and in no case less than 10V

The bypass circuit is indeed in the ignition switch. This is a separate switch contact that only does this one job, goes out through the bulkhead connector to the coil + side of the ballast resistor

BYPASSING the ballast is NOT going to cure this problem!!!!!!

1....The ballast is not in the circuit during start...........because the "ignition run" (IGN1) circuit goes DEAD during cranking

2....If the starting / bypass circuit is not operating, the car will never fire during crank, see no 1 above.

To put this another way.............

With the key in "start" the ONLY source of ignition power is the bypass circuit or "IGN2"

With the key in "run" the only source of run power is the "run" or IGN1" circuit

Exactly.

And to add to that just a bit about symptoms.
If you turn your key and it cranks and cranks and then starts when you let go of the key it's usually the ign switch or the start side of the ballast resistor or circuit.

If you crank and it starts right up, but quits as soon as you let go of the key it's the switch or the run side of ballast or circuit.

A jumper wire from the positive terminal on the battery to the positive terminal on the coil bypasses ALL of the wiring and switches involved and feeds the coil a full 12 volts for diagnostic purposes.