Adding AC to Duster

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www.Oleballnchain.com

www.Oleballnchain.com

1972 Plymouth Duster
Joined
Jan 21, 2013
Messages
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Location
Lafayette IN
Does anyone know if there exists a template to drill the hole through the firewall to run the evaporator supply and return lines when adding AC to an original non AC car? Bought a complete factory AC system at Indy last year and was just doing a little research on it. AC was a pretty common dealer addition on these cars, so I figure it can be done with the engine still in the car and without an insane amount of difficulty. Just not sure where the firewall holes will need to be, in this case on a 72 Duster.
 
I was under the impression?? that the firewall is a different SHAPE, not just different holes
 
I'm not sure it was. The older cars, 69 / earlier had different firewalls. There WAS 'add on' air that used what many call "knee knocker" evaporator units.

Such stuff as Vintage air, and at least one other have add on kits for non-AC cars, but it's a complete changeover and does not use factory parts.
 
67Dart273 is right. The passenger side firewall is stamped totally different for an a/c car. Chrysler dealers installed an add-on air unit that fit below the dash. Nothing like the assembly line unit.
Even the aftermarket air units will fit nice but you'll have holes left over.
 
yep, The dealer installed air package was a under dash unit some call a knee knocker.
Its vent looked like factory air at first glance. Main difference was the controls placed in the voids between those vents.
The install didn't require changing the factory heat only plenum, firewall, etc...
There isn't so much difference that the standard firewall cannot be modified to accept the a/c but... the impressions outward and inward, and hole differences, make it a challenge.
 
The firewall may be slightly different but it might still be doable. What you would need is another similar car with factory AC to do a careful side by side comparison. Find some common reference points and then take careful measurements to find out where the openings need to be. At the same time measure and check the position of other heater/AC components that protrude through the firewall such as the heater lines and blower motor to make sure that they are in the same position. You have the parts you might as well make the comparison, note the differences, and determine if it can be done and still look good - or not, if staying cool is of a higher priority. Make the comparison and tell us what you find out.
 
How different are the firewalls between 69 and 72? Converting my 68 to factory air was not hat difficult. I have a piece of firewall from a 69 a.c car that I layer over the existing one and marked the location of the holes. Fairly straight forward
 
www.Oleballnchain.com said:
Wow, I hope not. But if that is the case then how could it be added at the dealership?
Click to expand...

dealer installed in done completely different then a factory installed..


under dash unit.
DSC_0037.jpg


look how half assed they ran the copper line..lol
DSC_001921.jpg
 
www.Oleballnchain.com said:
Wow, I hope not. But if that is the case then how could it be added at the dealership?
Click to expand...

They used a different style for dealer add on A/C than the factory original.


It think that it would be difficult to drill a hole with the engine in the way, will not have clearance to fit the drill...

And how crowded is it from the interior side? Can it be drilled from the inside, or will it be hard to get the drill in there?
 
There is/was a member here who ships a firewall section as loaner template. I used it clamped over my non a/c firewall ( engine and everything else out of course ) to mark where every difference is. I measured and marked several details on my firewall and his template. Like outward offset 3/4 inch here, hole diameters, etc...
Please note, this template is from a 67-9 a-body. I don't think there is any difference before every dang thang changed for the 73 model but I've been wrong before.
 
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