cleaning up the slant six head
Thanks for the pics Ed, I've never seen the bottom two before.
So its all really that simple? Just blend and polish? Whats the purpose of the deep cut seats?
let me re-phrase that because that would be bad... you will have the old "soft" seats on the exhaust side removed and new hardened seats installed, that process you DO NOT want them to "sink" the seat. as you can see on the above pics the exh seat is close to the water jacket.
What i ment was after the seat is installed they size the the head to the inside of the new seat, normally they only go in like a 1/4" leaving a step, have them take it fairly deep, like double or triple that (i would have to have a head on a bench in process to get you an exact spec) so you have to port less, and its already round. again you just start to blend everything together.
if i was going to build any head again it would be in this order.
1. strip, "hot tank", and mag check
2. Install new guides and seats but ONLY rough in (that way if you knick is they can hone them out.
3. All your porting (now if your new 2&3 may switch which causes some extra work BUT if you hit water near the port opening your not out the money for seats and guide work)
4. If your going for big valves install the bare head on the bare block (use offset dowel pins) to center the head as wanted, then scribe the finish bore onto head face, then open chamber to that line. After you can smooth and polish (if not going crazy just smooth and polish but open up around each valve to unshround them a little)
5. mount gasket to head and install intake/exh (headers or manifold) and scribe the profile of the flanges. remove the int/exh from head and re-align gasket to the intake (then exh) and gasket match them.
6. install new longer studs on the int/exh surface and have it milled
6. The head is basically done now so send it back to the machine shop, do any milling you need, finish install valve seat and guides.