Stopping the knock: Lower compression and ported heads...

Stopping the knock: Lower compression and ported heads...

No. I said that because you talked about putting a smaller cam in it now. All that will do is make cylinder pressure increase and you will be right back where you were.......especially since you cannot understand what any of us are talking about regarding the timing curve. Here you are once again still arguing against proven methods.

Why are you even still shopping around for cams? I thought you had the problem fixed now and there is no detonation any longer. If that's the case, I'd leave well enough alone.

I don't care whose advice you follow. Makes no difference to me. It's not my car. You asked for advice. You grabbed hold of and followed what you wanted, leaving critical parts of it behind. That's no one's fault but yours. Then you want to come back on here effectively blaming others. you cannot see the forest for the trees.

You've never had any of your distributors apart to limit the advance. Not one. You think we're talking about the springs and we are not. You cannot half *** this stuff. You have to disassemble the distributor and weld up at least one of the advance slots to limit the total amount of advance. The reason is because the engine requires so much initial timing that without limiting the total, you will have dialed in too much total from having so much initial. You've never done that. You've argued every way sideways against it. You simply cannot understand what we have been trying to tell you all along.

Your **** is no different than anybody else's and that's how they do it. I have no idea how else to explain it to you. You're doing it wrong.

Frankenduster said
You say this because I didn't follow your advice to the nth degree?
Many (Not all) thought the thicker head gaskets wouldn't help my situation, yet it has done just that.
Regarding the ignition mods you suggested, I tried slowing the curve. Funny, the word curve doesn't really factor in since a 14 degree amount of advance in a dead straight line hardly appears like a curve...
RRR tried and tried to get me to delay the full advance until 3500 or so. I explained that when I eased up the rpms, THEN floored the car at 3500 or higher the car still detonated. I wrote MULTIPLE times that I felt that if his suggestions made sense to me, at 3500 (When in theory, the full advance would be in under RRRs advice) the car should have not knocked. This may be one of those things where two people are saying things that the other doesn't fully understand.
Again, whether I delayed the advance by way of distr. mods OR waiting until 3500 to floor it, I personally cannot see where the difference lies. There is no reason to insult anyone here either. If anyone cares to help me understand how or why I am wrong here, I'm willing to read. I'm not claiming to be the master of anything. I'm willing to admit where i am wrong.
These internet forums are voluntary. If someone reads my advice on something and decides to go another route, I don't continue to respond to the thread with..."Well, if you would have just done it MY way..." I figure that these threads are a guide to be used, not a recipe carved in stone.
Finally, I am not totally sold on a cam swap just yet. The Lunati was tried as a means to stop a detonation problem and it didn't work out. No biggie, that is life. Its not as if I raided the orphanage fund to buy these parts.
I am considering opening up the valve lash a bit to make the engine see "Less" cam. I might also advance the cam 4 degrees. These 2 moves may shift the power band a bit lower and soften up some of the bite. In reality, I shouldn't have wrote that the cam makes the car shake a bunch. It was an exaggeration. It shakes in comparison to what I'd prefer. No, I'm not looking for a totally smooth idle either. I just want something a bit more street friendly.