Out of your list, the only thing you'd still need is the lower control arm bushings and ball joints. Everything else will be taken care of in the TVS kit.
The TVS kit is pretty awesome, but for my money it includes some things that you don't need, and is missing some things that you do. In addition to being more expensive than some of the other options out there.
One of the biggest things is that Hotchkis uses heim joints on their UCA's. For a track car, that's awesome. On the street, I'm no longer sold on the idea. I wiped out the heims in my Hotchkis UCA's on my Challenger in about 7k miles of street driving, which included weather. Hotchkis did replace those heims, and now includes boots that cover the heim joints. But, I don't think the heims will last anywhere near as long as bushings on the street, and changing them isn't the most enjoyable thing ever. The heims on the struts rods aren't as big of a deal, as they don't see the loading that the UCA's do.
This is what I would do (and have basically done on my Duster...)
- 1.06 (or bigger) Firm Feel torsion bars - $355
- Tubular UCA’s (PST, FFI, etc)- $350
- Adjustable strut rods (PST SR 14385)- $279
- Solid tie rod sleeves (PST SAS 440S)- $49
- LCA boxing plate (PST LCAPLTMOP621)- $14.50
- Greasable LCA pins (FFI w bushings)- $135
Hellwig Sway bars
- Tubular front 1 1/8” (#55905)- $142
- Solid rear 3/4” (#6907)- $237
or E body rear ( for B rear cars)
- Solid 7/8” (#6908 )- $180
Afco leaf springs
- 20231M (121 lb)- $320
Or
- 20231 (142 lb)- $340
1” bushings for shackles
- Energy suspension (2-2117G)- $9
- Bilstein RCD shocks (RCD-70-56663)- $400
For a grand total of $2,311, if you use the more expensive A body rear sway bar and 142# springs. :D
But, that includes the torsion bars, shocks, and reinforced LCA's with greasable pivots, which would cost an extra $885 to add to the TVR kit. So, you're looking at a savings of $675. And you're pretty close to comparing like to like with that. True, you don't get heims, or the hotchkis sway bars (which are awesome), but everything will basically function the same on a street car. You also don't get the Hotchkis rear springs, which a lot of folks have had problems with. I have the 121lb Afco's on my Duster, and they work great. I listed the 142's for the 111" wheelbase cars, probably a better idea. The 121's sit just above "zero arch" on my Duster. They also have a reinforced front section for improved handling, they're basically circle track springs.
And you can use your extra money to put in some frame connectors and torque boxes, or buy better brakes, or a Borgeson steering box, or a set of Mustang rims, etc. etc.
Just my .02...