Damper mark @ dot to dot ? ASAP
Let's sum this up: (I have not said anything new here)
BOTH no1 and no6 pistons come up to "the top" (TDC) at same time, and the balancer timing mark should show that if accurate
The cam turns 1/2 crank speed, so aligning the dots at 12 /6 or at 12 /12 just doesn't matter as long as you get it RIGHT and not a tooth off. Look STRAIGHT into the front of the engine, and use a straightedge
Worry about no1 or no6 firing stroke later
You SHOULD degree the cam
REGARDLESS of what parts are "mixed" you should check ACCURACY of your TDC mark anyway. Easiest method (for me) is a positive stop. With heads off, all you need is a heavy piece of strap / angle with at least one head bolt hole and a method (bolt) of stopping the piston.
With heads on, use a spark plug piston stop, which you can build or buy
First check the balancer and make or check the original TDC mark
Figure out how to mark the balancer out to at least 55-60 degrees to take care of advance / vacuum advance This is easy. You need a good flexible tape, a small square (can be homemade) a sharp scribe, small file, and dividers
Measure around the balancer carefully and accurately. Take that figure and figure "degrees per inch"
Measure off 40 degrees. You MUST use a tape, not dividers, to make this first mark.
Now you can take dividers and divide the 40 in half which gives you your "20" mark. You can check this from the TDC mark to the 40 mark and know that it's exactly half of 40
Now take this 20 setting and make your 60 mark from 20
And......you can do the same thing with 10, etc
Use a scribe and small square to make marks in the balancer. Use a small triangular file to make the marks deeper.
It also doesn't hurt to mark the crank every 90* from TDC. This can be of help for things like setting valve lash (using the "Mopar" chart) and ESPECIALLY for doing a leakdown test
Let's sum this up: (I have not said anything new here)
BOTH no1 and no6 pistons come up to "the top" (TDC) at same time, and the balancer timing mark should show that if accurate
The cam turns 1/2 crank speed, so aligning the dots at 12 /6 or at 12 /12 just doesn't matter as long as you get it RIGHT and not a tooth off. Look STRAIGHT into the front of the engine, and use a straightedge
Worry about no1 or no6 firing stroke later
You SHOULD degree the cam
REGARDLESS of what parts are "mixed" you should check ACCURACY of your TDC mark anyway. Easiest method (for me) is a positive stop. With heads off, all you need is a heavy piece of strap / angle with at least one head bolt hole and a method (bolt) of stopping the piston.
With heads on, use a spark plug piston stop, which you can build or buy
First check the balancer and make or check the original TDC mark
Figure out how to mark the balancer out to at least 55-60 degrees to take care of advance / vacuum advance This is easy. You need a good flexible tape, a small square (can be homemade) a sharp scribe, small file, and dividers
Measure around the balancer carefully and accurately. Take that figure and figure "degrees per inch"
Measure off 40 degrees. You MUST use a tape, not dividers, to make this first mark.
Now you can take dividers and divide the 40 in half which gives you your "20" mark. You can check this from the TDC mark to the 40 mark and know that it's exactly half of 40
Now take this 20 setting and make your 60 mark from 20
And......you can do the same thing with 10, etc
Use a scribe and small square to make marks in the balancer. Use a small triangular file to make the marks deeper.
It also doesn't hurt to mark the crank every 90* from TDC. This can be of help for things like setting valve lash (using the "Mopar" chart) and ESPECIALLY for doing a leakdown test