hydraulic clutch in A body

ntsqd said
My T5 converted '65 Valiant has an Annular T/O (Hyd.) bearing. The shims aren't for adjusting, they're spacers for rough placement. The unit has a threaded sleeve for fine adjustment. And you don't adjust them once you have the spacing correct, they're self-adjusting because the PP will only push them back so far and that's all the further that they move. So the adjustment that you do need to make only determines where in the pedal travel you want the feather point to be. After that there is no more adjusting necessary for the life of the clutch.

7/8" MC is not correct. Most run a 5/8" MC, some use a 3/4" MC with really high pedal ratios.

Wilwood p/n 260-1333 is the pull type slave cylinder.

I can add some pics if there's interest.

Some of the bore sizing is dependent on the slave cylinder choice as well. I'm running a 7/8" master to go with my T56 slave. You can tune the feel and travel using the bores or the pedal ratio. It becomes a pretty big game of variables, so typically the easiest thing to do is just fix a few or try to match a master to whatever slave you choose. For instance an X brand slave might be 5/8, so you might pick a 5/8 master to match it. A larger master will reduce pedal travel at the cost of pressure. Similarly, a smaller bore will make for an easier pedal, but you'll need more travel to move the same amount of fluid. The same can be said about the pickup point of the master on the pedal itself. Move the master connection closer to the pedal pivot and you get a softer pedal, but less travel. Move it further down and your travel goes up, but your pressure does as well. I cheated and just copied someone elses geometry and choices, but if you read up on the other threads you'll see most are pretty similar to begin with.