Stubborn starting question...

I would guess points burning up is some other problem OTHER than bad points, here are some check points, LOL pun fully intended

BATTERY CHARGING VOLTAGE. Running, battery voltage should be 13.8--14.2 with engine warm, in no case above 14.5

COIL could be bad. Check coil running voltage. This varies greatly, might be, idling, anywhere from 10-12 volts but in no case more than 12. Typically less.

SUSPECT bad condenser. Check that the external condenser is hooked to the POSITIVE coil connection, and that the distributor wire is hooked to the NEGATIVE coil connection. The external condenser is for radio suppression

SUSPECT points gap. If the points are set too close, they will burn. Check with a dwell meter. ALWAYS set points "on the wide" side as they will wear closed. Always set timing towards "more" advanced because as the points wear "shut" timing will retard. Always put a tiny tiny amount of hi temp lube on the points rubbing block on the "approach" side. Points, back in the day when "points" were "real" came with a tiny capsule of lube.

MAKE SURE your feeler gauge is clean, and again, set with a dwell meter. Hell, I never even used to USE a feeler. I used to estimate gap, set them with a dwell meter (scope) "on the starter. Then I'd start it up and recheck. They would change some between "on the starter" and running, but after you did this a few times, you knew how much to "adjust." Back in 70--74, I set hundreds and hundreds of 'em




Thanks for the feedback. Let me reply with recent work;

BATTERY CHARGING VOLTAGE.
-Generally she runs fairly low on voltage, about 13V; good for the battery but not so good for the system...

COIL could be bad.
-I can check to see if I got a bad one, but a replacement coil was installed in November when I started this thread.

SUSPECT bad condenser.
-I swap a condensor every time I replace points.

SUSPECT points gap.
-I'll check this. I am more conservative that you, setting them at .18, but I'll try widening them. I'm also going to doube check timing after all these adjustments.

MAKE SURE your feeler gauge is clean.

-Done & done.



She's running now, starting and not stalling, but I'm going to check timing because she's not very powerful. If she keeps going for a few weeks, I'll look to making the swap to an electronic ignition. I've been looking into the Chrysler kit conversion because the Protronics adapter kits have so-so reviews. I'd rather add a plug & play whole unit, if I can scrape up the pennies!


FYI: The carp rebuild had helped fuel flow but i had an interesting experience yesterday. I'd filled up with non-ethinal gas the night before and went out to add some SeaFoam the next morn. When I pulled the fuel cap, a run of gas burped out the tank! Odd, as I'd driven 5-7 mi after filling up. There must be a fuel pressure issue that I hadn't discovered yet!


Any suggestions on you recommended conversions for Electronic distributors conversion set ups??

:burnout: