Will GM 200r4 work with factory floor shift location?
Update!! I should be able to attempt the swap over next week!! Also I happen to be parting out another FB Barracuda and I'm in the process of cutting out and selling the auto tunnel. It gives me a perfect chance to take the cut tunnel and linkage and show everyone about the interference problem between the torque rod and the 2004R housing ( I wrote about this problem months ago). Here I have some pics of the chopped up tunnel on the 2004R with pics of the factory linkage as it hits the tranny housing. You can see the normal torque rod in the tunnel when there's nothing in the way (first pic), then when I put the tunnel over the 2004R you can see how the torque rod is no longer vertical (plumb). The 2004R housing is fatter where the torque rod normally sits. You can see the torque rod pushed out to the driver's side. This is exactly what I had been thinking would happen, now I can actually see it!!!. My plan all along was to cut the torque rod so that only about 3-4 inches hangs below the rubber boot. Then attach a new bell crank lever to the end of the short torque rod (see pics). I used a 1/2 rod to depict the short torque rod and attached my new bell crank to the 1/2" rod. Once I have the 904 out I can cut the torque rod attach another 1/2" rod end just below the boot and weld on my new bell crank lever. I still need to put the last bend in the new bell crank so that it has the same amount of throw as the factory bell crank, I'm also using a heavier piece of flat stock to compensate for the extra length. Since I'm going to be welding upside down and under the car tunnel when I install the new bell crank lever I plan to drill a hole larger than 1/2" in the top end of the bell crank and weld in (on the bench) a short piece of hollow tube (1/8" wall thickness"). This 1" long piece of tube (with 1/2 ID) will make it much easier to weld the new bell crank (lever) to the short torque rod. You wouldn't want the new torque shaft to break free of the bell crank lever....that would be bad. The factory welded the bell crank lever to the torque rod on the bench (out of the car), making easy to get a good solid weld between the two parts. I'm going to be in a very small space and need an easy way to make sure the two parts are solidly welded together. There will be pics of all this in case anyone is confused about my pans.
I don't see any problem with interference if I do it right. Has anyone else tried this???
QUESTIONS????
Treblig